No, Dermaplaning Won't Make Your Hair Grow Back Thicker
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Once a treatment typically reserved for models and celebrities who often get photographed up close and personal, dermaplaning has made its way into the mainstream beauty world over the past few years. That’s because this procedure is painless, relatively inexpensive, and effective at improving the overall texture of facial skin.
Meet Our Experts: Dr. Loretta Ciraldo MD, FAAD, Miami-based board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Loretta skincare, Danielle Gronich, clinical aesthetician, owner of San Diego Acne Clinic, and co-founder of CLEARSTEM Skincare, Jennifer Adell, licensed aesthetician at New Beauty & Wellness in Westport, Connecticut
“Dermaplaning was originally introduced as an in-office procedure in the late 1980s,” says Dr. Loretta Ciraldo MD, FAAD, a Miami-based board-certified dermatologist and founder of Dr. Loretta skincare. “This involved the use of a scalpel blade, which was applied with minimal, steady pressure to facial skin to remove layers of dead skin cells. More recently, many devices have been introduced for at home use which are more razor-like than the original surgical scalpel blades used.”
Essentially a method of physical exfoliation similar to shaving but deeper in its effect while still being gentle on the skin, there’s also reason to believe dermaplaning can make makeup application more even and your favorite serums and essences increasingly effective, too, but more on that later.
Curious to see whether dermaplaning might be something worth trying in your own beauty or self-care routine? Here, you’ll find a guide to all things defuzzing and shedding that topmost layer of facial skin, from what to expect during a dermaplaning session and the potential difference you might notice post-appointment to tips on dermaplaning safely at home, if you’d rather go the DIY method.
What is dermaplaning?
“Dermaplaning is a method of exfoliation wherein the practitioner uses a curved surgical blade to remove fine facial hair along with the surface layer of skin,” says Danielle Gronich, a California-based clinical esthetician, owner of San Diego Acne Clinic, and co-founder of CLEARSTEM Skincare. “Think of a scalpel with smooth edges that can contour the face and reach the delicate curves that would never be suitable for a typical razor.”
If you’re still picturing shaving your face with a razor when you think of dermaplaning though, that’s not a totally accurate visual. “I’m often asked if dermaplaning is the same as shaving,” says Jennifer Adell, a licensed esthetician at New Beauty & Wellness in Westport, Connecticut. “Yes and no. Dermaplaning uses a scalpel blade, and shaving uses a straight razor blade. Shaving is designed to cut the hair at the skin level, while a scalpel removes the top superficial layer of skin as well.”
What are the benefits of dermaplaning?
If you think of your face like a canvas for cosmetics and other skincare products, dermaplaning can be thought of as part of the priming process for even, effective application. The removal of the topmost layer of dead skin cells and hair creates a smoother base for anything you want to put on it, from moisturizer to complexion makeup. Even better, this treatment can potentially increase the efficiency of your favorite skincare formulas. “Dermaplaning lessens the skin barrier,” says Dr. Ciraldo. “This means that your products will penetrate more effectively.”
In addition to the smoothness you’ll feel, Gronich says you may notice that your complexion is brighter and more glowy over time, too. Dr. Ciraldo agrees, adding that sometimes dermaplaning can be recommended for lessening facial dark spots. The only catch? You need to be consistent with your treatments and equally steadfast in protecting your skin after each session to reap these results. “These benefits can only be expected if the clients really protect their skin barrier post-treatment, just as with any other type of exfoliation,” says Gronich.
Who should try dermaplaning?
Anyone who has rough or dull skin—or a lot of vellus hair (AKA peach fuzz)—could be a great candidate for dermaplaning, according to Gronich, “as their facial products and makeup go on much smoother and more seamlessly” post-treatment. “This is also great for those who want a significant exfoliation experience without a chemical peel,” she adds. That’s because dermaplaning is minimally invasive, and zero downtime is required for recovery.
While dermaplaning can be a solution for improving the texture of all skin types and particularly effective for those with thicker, darker vellus hair, Adell doesn’t recommend dermaplaning if you have active acne, an eczema flare-up, rosacea, or cold sores.
What will my dermaplaning appointment look like?
Whether you make a dermaplaning appointment at a dermatologist’s office, plastic surgeon’s office, or a medical spa, Adell says you can expect the treatment to take about 15 to 30 minutes on average.
“During this process, the practitioner cleanses and preps the skin, which can even sometimes include the use of a light enzyme to soften the skin prior,” says Gronich. “The client lays still, and the practitioner then uses the blade to gently shave the fine hair.”
Once the work with the scalpel is complete, Gronich says your skin will be slightly pink and sensitive but primed and ready for the next step, which is typically the application of some kind of soothing agent. “The practitioner generally follows with a gentle serum or some other mild skincare product targeted to the client's needs,” says Gronich.
Two things to keep in mind when it comes to dermaplaning: First, like any facial treatment, you want to choose an experienced professional for your service, and though a scalpel is involved, the process shouldn’t hurt at all. “If you have an in-office procedure and experience pain, you need to tell the aesthetician immediately, so she will apply less pressure to the skin,” says Dr. Ciraldo. “If one particular area is painful, you should seek professional advice on what the underlying pathology may be in this area.”
What should you do before and after dermaplaning?
For best results, Gronich suggests avoiding retinoids for at least five days before your appointment, so the skin barrier is not inflamed. You’ll also want to prep your skin by cleansing and toning it, says Adell, so you can get the most out of the exfoliating aspect of the treatment.
“Dermaplaning can be very sensitizing, so any activities, like excessive sun exposure, should be avoided several days pre- and post-procedure,” says Gronich. She recommends skipping other exfoliators, whether chemical or mechanical, for at least three days after dermaplaning as well. “The best post-care includes calming products, like hyaluronic-based serums and collagen-stimulating serums that have epidermal growth factors and peptides,” Gronich adds.
That doesn’t mean all of your favorite anti-agers are fair game though. Dr. Ciraldo recommends skipping anything harsh or irritating post-treatment, including formulas with AHA or retinoids. “Since these will get absorbed into skin better, [they] may become very irritating on post-dermaplaned skin,” says Dr. Ciraldo. You should always apply sunscreen after dermaplaning, too.
Will my hair grow back thicker after dermaplaning?
If you’re worried about your vellus hair growing back thicker, darker, or faster post-treatment, fortunately, that’s a fear that’s unfounded. “Dermaplaning can remove peach fuzz, but it should never create stubble,” says Dr. Ciraldo.
Any other side effects?
When you remove that dull, topmost layer of dead skin cells, Dr. Ciraldo says you should be proactive about preventing dryness, as less of a skin barrier means the potential for more water loss. “I highly recommend you apply a hydrating serum, like theDr. Loretta Intense Replenishing Serum, and antioxidant moisturizer, like theDr. Loretta Anti-Aging Repair Moisturizer,” she says.
Since the procedure does involve a blade, Gronich says it’s also possible to experience tiny cuts or nicks, which may sting with product application after dermaplaning. Though cuts are rare in the hands of an experienced professional, you’ll want to treat any abrasions thoroughly to prevent potential infection.
“There is also the likelihood of redness and sensitivity, as the barrier can feel a little scraped or raw depending on the practitioner's pressure,” says Gronich. Both of these things should subside quickly if they occur.
Can I try dermaplaning at home?
According to Dr. Ciraldo, dermaplaning at home is totally safe, but going the DIY route may involve some tradeoffs to consider. First and foremost, while surgical scalpel blades tend to still be used in-office procedures, at-home devices usually more closely resemble razors. This means results will vary a bit in terms of how much dead skin you’re actually able to get rid of.
“The depth of skin removal is much more superficial with at-home dermaplaning than in-office,” Dr. Ciraldo says, and that’s definitely due to the difference in the tools. That being said, DIY dermaplaning can typically be done weekly, whereas Dr. Ciraldo recommends more of a monthly cadence if you’re going the in-office route. For that reason, your decision may come down to time and money. Dermaplaning at home may take you a little longer, need to be done more frequently, and yield a little bit more superficial results, but it can be very budget-friendly and convenient.
Before taking on this kind of treatment at home though, Dr. Ciraldo suggests watching multiple how-to videos on dermaplaning to study up on the technique before performing it on your own face. When you feel confident about the process, you’ll want to prep your skin accordingly.
“You should first clean the skin to minimize surface skin oils and any debris, but do the dermaplaning on dry skin,” says Dr. Ciraldo. “Be sure not to go over any areas that are inflamed or any broken blood vessels, as these areas can start to bleed if they are dermaplaned.” Adell says you might find dermaplaning after a warm shower advantageous. “If you have the chance to warm your skin with either steam, a warm shower, or an at-home steamer, this will allow the removal of dead skin to be easier,” says Adell. That being said, you don’t want your face to be wet to the touch before you start the treatment.
Most skincare pros don’t recommend surgical grade blades for DIY dermaplaning, so consider something more user-friendly. If you're not using anything disposable, Dr. Ciraldo suggests changing your blade on a monthly basis to avoid dulling. “With any blade, it's important to be mindful of the eyebrows area, so we don't accidentally shave them off!” adds Gronich. Finally, whatever tool you choose, always follow the manufacturer’s instructions carefully, especially when it comes to any directives on the tautness, pressure, and angle at which to apply to your skin. Dermaplaning is meant to be gentle on the skin.
It’s also a good idea to inspect your skin before treatments, too. “If you have a newer or changing skin lesion, I recommend you see a dermatologist before dermaplaning over it to be sure the lesion doesn't represent a precancer or skin cancer,” says Dr. Ciraldo. Again, you’ll want to avoid areas with acne or forgo this kind of a treatment altogether if you’re experiencing a breakout.
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