I Have Natural Hair and an Itchy Scalp—Here Are the Products That Actually Work

AndreyPopov

I’ve had issues with an itchy scalp my entire life. My mom said that even as a baby I had cradle cap, an oily rash that develops on newborns. By the time I got to middle school, I asked her to take me to a dermatologist in a desperate attempt to get some relief. This was the late ’90s, long before the natural-hair community exchanged remedies on the internet and natural-hair care brands were widely accessible.

My doctor ended up prescribing me a medicated shampoo that did more harm than good, stripping my hair of every bit of moisture and making my strands feel like dry straw. Frustrated, I tossed the shampoo that was clearly formulated without my itchy scalp and natural hair in mind.

Over the next 20-plus years, I resorted to countless other remedies (Sulfur8, scalp scrubs, DIY hot-oil treatment recipes from YouTube), and I even made one last attempt to see a dermatologist two years ago. The doctor rushed me as I tried to tell her my symptoms and history and prescribed me yet another shampoo.

I’ve gotten so overwhelmed and emotional, sometimes near tears, because I felt like my scalp was robbing me of both my time and freedom to live without incessant itching or worrying about flakes falling on my clothes. I love my long and thick hair, but it’s a lot to care for without the added stress of a flaky scalp. While most people I know could go one to two weeks between wash days, I’d have to repeat the process every three to four days if I wanted to avoid the itchiness and gunky flakes. Up until a few years ago, it’d take me about six hours to wash and style my hair. (I’ve since gotten wash day down to three to four hours.) Six hours on my hair every three to four days? I was ready to throw the whole scalp away.

One night last December, I searched “flaky scalp remedy natural hair” on TikTok while in bed. I watched several promising reviews of Nizoral Anti-Dandruff Shampoo from girls who looked like me and who had also been suffering with irritable scalp for years. I bought the blue bottle of shampoo and haven’t looked back since. My scalp finally found the soothing relief I've been looking for my entire life. I started customizing a routine around the Nizoral, and finally, at 36 years old, I’ve nailed a wash-day routine that lasts a full seven days—clean scalp and all!

Ahead, I spoke to board-certified dermatologist Patricia Oyetakin, MD, and trichologist Abena Palmore, who specializes in itchy scalp and natural hair, to share their best tips.

Use antidandruff shampoo and hydrating shampoo.

Nizoral has become a staple in my routine. But how exactly does it work? Dr. Oyetakin says that the shampoo’s key ingredient, ketoconazole, “inhibits common fungus and yeast microbes that can cause skin infections."

“For seborrheic dermatitis, which is a severe form of scalp dandruff, ketoconazole is effective in treating malassezia furfur, a yeast organism that is involved in the condition,” Dr. Oyetakin says. Although Nizoral doesn’t leave my hair brittle like the shampoo prescribed to me as a kid, I can still feel a lot of the moisture stripping away, which is apparently normal. “In my experience, a lot of patients report dryness and stiffer hair texture when using Nizoral shampoo alone,” she says. “I often recommend using a hydrating shampoo and conditioner immediately afterward to reduce the risk of this happening.”

My replenishing shampoo of choice has been OurX’s Nutrient Cleanse Complex. Investing in quality hair care products that cater specifically to the needs of my hair is a must for me. There’s a visible and physical difference in both my hair and scalp when my routine is built on products with quality ingredients.

Try a gentle exfoliating tool.

I’ve also found that gently using an exfoliating tool, like the Luxe Therapy Scalp Soother or a scalp scrubber, to make sure all the buildup is lifted during the shampoo step is very helpful.

However, be mindful to not overdo things. Palmore, founder of Embrace Natural Beauty Salon, warns against being too harsh on your scalp. “Do not dig into the scalp—this could cause abrasion and tears,” she says. “Just make contact with the scalp and gently massage in a soothing manner.”

Use penetrative conditioners and minimal styling products.

When it comes to hair care and styling, less is more. I avoid excessive conditioners and stylers, sticking to one rich formula, like the OurX Intensive Conditioning Compound, or a lightweight leave-in that can also aid in styling, like the brand’s Treatment Leave-In. I usually alternate between a rinse-out and leave-in conditioner every other wash day. More pocket-friendly options that have also worked incredibly well for me are Moisture Love’s Deep Indulgence Replenishing Conditioner and Now & Forever Leave-In Conditioning Serum.

My approach is very similar with stylers. At most I’m using two stylers, usually a hair butter and a curl definer. I avoid butters that make my hair feel heavy and curl-defining products that leave white flaky casts because they trigger my flaky flare-ups. My styling go-tos have been Wonder Curl Moisturizing Hair Pudding, followed by the brand’s Get Set Hair Jelly. Instead of products that promise super-high shine or maximum hold, opt for clean stylers with fewer ingredients.

Overall, when applying postshampoo products, avoid the scalp. “All conditioning and styling products need to be applied to the hair only,” Palmore says. She recommends routine wash days every 5 to 10 days since it’s inevitable that some products will make contact with the scalp. Dr. Oyetakin recommends “avoiding any harsh products that may irritate the scalp and impair the skin barrier.” She encourages people suffering with dandruff and other scalp conditions to look for alcohol-free products to avoid flare-ups.

Set routine wash days.

Although I’ve nailed a routine that works for me, I also incorporate some simple but impactful lifestyle practices to maximize the results. I rarely skip my weekly wash day because maintaining a clean scalp, free of excessive product and oil buildup, is necessary in keeping my flare-ups at bay. At the very most I can stretch my wash days to two weeks apart, but at that point I can definitely feel it starting to itch.

Clean hair tools and accessories.

There’s no point in putting a ton of effort into clean hair and scalp if you’re just going to use dirty accessories and tools. Every wash day I also clean my bonnets and my tools (for me that’s typically a pick, a wide-tooth comb, and an edges brush). Anything that consistently comes in contact with my hair over the next seven days is also getting a thorough cleaning. “Wash all hair tools and bonnets weekly to reduce the risk of bacteria and yeast overgrowth,” says Dr. Oyetakin. “If washing [your tools and accessories] weekly is not feasible, consider buying enough to rotate between washing.”

When to see a doctor:

“If your skin or scalp condition is worsening while using over-the-counter products, then I would recommend seeking the advice of a physician,” Dr. Oyetakin says. “I will often evaluate all areas of the scalp, face, eyebrows, and eyelashes to look for clues to confirm my diagnosis.”

She also performs skin biopsies and skin scrapings “to check for common conditions like psoriasis, discoid lupus, as well as severe fungal infection,” and to accurately diagnose patients. “For example, what may look like severe seborrheic dermatitis may actually be early scalp psoriasis,” she adds.

Originally Appeared on Glamour