Must Read: Florence Pugh Covers 'Vogue' Winter Issue, Supermodel Tatjana Patitz Has Died

Plus, the decline of beauty influencer brands.

These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Thursday.

Florence Pugh covers Vogue's Winter 2023 issue
In the cover story, the "Don't Worry Darling" star spoke about her childhood, her relationship with Zach Braff, teenage struggles with mental distress and how she found love for acting. As told to Chloe Schama, Pugh said, "Being onstage is a different thing, because you're in front of people who need to be entertained now.… And I know that when I do a play, it's going to mean a different thing. Whereas if I'd done it five years ago, not as many people would've come. I suppose the more time that I've avoided it, the more the pressure builds." {Vogue}

Supermodel Tatjana Patitz has died
Supermodel Tatjana Patitz passed away at the age of 56. Patitz was best known for her work in the '80s and '90s and is deemed one of the original supermodels (though she was never a part of the "Big Six"). In an obituary by Laird Borrelli-Persson, Vogue remembers Patitz for her natural beauty and her allure that "was womanly and knowing." Anna Wintour said, "Tatjana was always the European symbol of chic, like Romy Schneider-meets-Monica Vitti. She was far less visible than her peers — more mysterious, more grown-up, more unattainable — and that had its own appeal." {Vogue}

Are beauty influencer brands falling out of fashion?
Kati Chitrakorn from Vogue Business provides insight into why once-popular influencer-led beauty brands are on the decline. Brands facing the consequences of lessened interest in influencers include Selfless by Hyram and Item Beauty (founded by Addison Rae) — both have been pulled out of Sephora. Morphe's recent struggles offer another example. Maya Zawislak, strategic insight director at Kantar Worldpanel, said, "Consumers are becoming savvier, putting time into researching beauty products before making a purchase and substantiating claims before buying." {Vogue Business}

Isabel Marant's new logo and plan to scale "Parisienne" 
French label Isabel Marant is rebranding. As reported by Tamison O'Connor from Business of Fashion, the updated look will include a fresh logo and updated packaging. The revamp comes from a larger plan to set the label up to better compete against larger players in the luxury market. "It is a strong brand in terms of consumer love. It's a brand of aficionados, so it's a brand that can create that very strong [loyalty] without being a pure luxury player," said Celia Friedman, managing director of the luxury division at strategy consulting firm Publicis Sapient. After exceeding sales and growth goals in 2022, Isabel Marant feels that it is in the right position to expand with new stores, sales goals and products. {Business of Fashion}

Entering a new era of cosmetics industry regulations
As a result of the recent spending bill President Biden signed at the end of last year, the federal government has been given more power over the cosmetics industry per the "Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022." Emma Sandler from Glossy reports that the act stems from continuous advocacy for higher standards of beauty regulations. Updated regulations include companies disclosing fragrance allergens, salon products disclosing ingredients and beauty product manufacturers registering within one year of enactment. Lindsay Dahl, chief impact officer at vitamin brand Ritual, said, "I am energized by how much progress was made with this legislation while simultaneously committed to getting other pieces passed to ensure cosmetics are safe for consumers." {Glossy}

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