Must Read: Aaron Rose Philip, Selma Blair and Sinéad Burke Cover British 'Vogue,' 'Better' Materials Don't Completely Offset Fashion's Climate Impact

Plus, Tiffany's NYC flagship store reopens after renovations.

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These are the stories making headlines in fashion on Thursday.

Aaron Rose Philip, Selma Blair and Sinéad Burke cover British Vogue
Headlined "Reframing Fashion," British Vogue's latest cover platforms Aaron Rose Philip, Selma Blair and Sinéad Burke — three stars who continue to advocate for disabled rights and visibility. Philip, Blair and Burke speak about challenging the rules of fashion and Hollywood that are infamously exclusionary, and the importance of inclusivity and representation. "There is work to do and change will require a mindset shift and a collective effort," Burke wrote. "Accessibility and disability inclusion is everyone's responsibility and opportunity. This is a movement, not a moment. And it involves all of us." {British Vogue}

"Better" materials don't completely offset fashion's climate impact
Though more fashion brands and retailers are sourcing recycled materials and certified cotton, emissions have increased compared to pandemic lows. Fashion's greenhouse gas footprints have risen up 5% year-on-year, though the levels are still lower than pre-pandemic. The conflict arises with retailers aiming to use consciously sourced materials whilst maintaining their growth-focused business models. "While 'preferred' materials (defined as having a lesser environmental impact than conventional options) made up nearly 60% of brands' material use in 2021, the benefits of this shift were offset by overall volume growth, the [Textile Exchange's annual Material Change Index] report found," per the Business of Fashion. {Business of Fashion/paywalled}

Tiffany & Co.'s NYC flagship store reopens
After four years of renovations, Tiffany & Co.'s Manhattan location has reopened — ushering in the new Tiffany. After being acquired by LVMH in 2021 in a $16 billion deal, the newly remodeled store reflects the freshness LVMH continues to bring to the brand. "We asked ourselves lots of questions going into this," Anthony Ledru, Tiffany's chief executive, told The New York Times. "Are we going to change the feel? Do we respect tradition? We decided to do both." The 10-floor landmark has been interiorly designed with updates such as an Audrey Hepburn experience room, a mirror-lined staircase and displays highlighting Tiffany's signature blue color.  "This is not just another flagship," Ledru said. "For us, the landmark is now the lighthouse of the brand." {The New York Times/paywalled}

The rise of cosmetic chemists on TikTok
For Allure, Kara McGrath reports on the rise of cosmetic chemists on TikTok — breaking down what cosmetic chemists do and why their content is suddenly going viral. As numerous cosmetic chemists told McGrath, the job is one you learn as you go and figure out what ingredients go well together. Many of these scientists aren't internally employed by beauty brands but are contracted manufacturers or freelance consultants. As for why cosmetic chemists have garnered such a strong following on TikTok? McGrath concluded that while their content is informative, "many of the younger chemists making these videos also have a background or interest in performing." {Allure}

LVMH to replace Sidney Toledano as head of Fashion Group
CEO Bernard Arnault announced that a new leader of LVMH's Fashion Group division will be named as Sidney Toledano ushers into a new role, according to WWD. The division overlooks brands such as Celine, Loewe, Givenchy, Kenzo and Marc Jacobs. Underneath Toledano's leadership, revenues in the division went up and the business unit's profitability also increased. "I wanted to underline the exceptional job he has done. He's not leaving. No, he will take on another role," said Bernard Arnault, chairman and executive officer of LVMH. Toledano's successor is planned to be announced in the coming months, but no decisions have been finalized. {WWD/paywalled}

L'Oréal reports strong first-quarter sales 
L'Oréal's revealed a very strong start to 2023 with a 14.6% sales increase (13% on a comparable basis). The report also showed that the company grew in all divisions, especially Dermatological Beauty and Consumer Products. There was double-digit growth in each of the divisions' global brands, with makeup being the fastest-growing category. "I am thrilled to soon welcome the magnificent Aēsop brand and its teams, which will reinforce L’Oréal Luxe," Nicolas Hieronimus, CEO of L'Oréal, said in a statement. "Mindful of the current uncertainties, we remain optimistic about the outlook for the beauty market, ambitious for the future and confident in our ability to keep outperforming the market and achieve another year of growth in sales and profits in 2023." {L'Oréal Groupe}

Homepage Photo: Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images

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