Mugler Resort 2019
The surest signal that something is afoot at Mugler was the sight of Beyoncé rocking a custom outfit from the house on the opening night of her “On the Run II” tour with Jay-Z.
Just a few months into his new gig as artistic director for women’s ready-to-wear at the French fashion house, Casey Cadwallader – a relative unknown with a resume that includes stints at Narciso Rodriguez, Loewe and Acne – found himself in the hot seat, churning out stage costume designs for the singer.
“My whole life, I’ve dreamt of doing that,” he said, noting that house founder Manfred Thierry Mugler worked with Beyoncé on her 2009 “I Am…” tour, designing not just the outfits, but also consulting on the choreography, lighting and production.
The opportunity arrived just as Cadwallader is starting to map out his vision for the brand. After a low-key debut presentation in New York in May, which will be sold exclusively through Net-a-porter, Bergdorf Goodman and the Mugler store in Paris, resort marks his first full collection.
He carried over a number of the key pieces – among them, a tailored jacket with lacing at the sides and “spiral cut” jeans – but broadened the offering with leather, knitwear, and comfort pieces with volume.
Many used experimental techniques, like a glossy nylon version of the spiral cut pants, achieved by plunging the garment into a bath of oil and hot black dye. Sheer layers were used to hazy effect – think techno organza cycling shorts, which can be worn under a dress, or a barely-there dégradé-print celluloid T-shirt.
“My main goal is to rebuild a culture around the brand and to reconnect with all of these amazing women. That could be a ballerina, that could be an athlete, that could be a singer, that could be a businesswoman – it doesn’t matter. It’s about giving them what they need,” Cadwallader said.
The results spanned from sophisticated ease – a black crepe dress with a seamed panel in front that mimicked the curves of corseting, but with none of the discomfort – to theatrical bravado. A black backless jacket dripped with sweeping fringe – performance art in motion.
Launch Gallery: Mugler Resort 2019
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