The most beautiful ferry journeys in the British Isles
There’s a certain romance to travelling by ferry that you just don’t get from flying: the salty sea air, the swaying ocean, the first glimpse of dry land and the prospect of seeing dolphins are just some of the highlights from a sea crossing.
And it seems Britons are rediscovering the long-forgotten charms of travelling by boat: according to Discover Ferries, there was a four per cent rise in the number of cars taken on UK and Irish vessels in July, which is perhaps due to a weaker pound and, for this writer at least, a growing weariness of airports.
From scenic cruises in the Outer Hebrides to quick hops across historic harbours, here are some of the best ferry journeys in the UK and Ireland.
1. Aberdeen to Lerwick, Scotland
You might be in for a wild ride if you hop aboard North Link's overnight ferry from Aberdeen to Lerwick. This legendary service scythes through the choppy North Sea for 12 hours (14 if it goes via Orkney) as it delivers passengers to the windswept Shetland Islands. “I’ve made the journey so often that I have a ritual: a meal in the Magnus lounge, a glass of Unst beer and then to my cabin to sleep,” wrote Telegraph Travel’s Ann Cleave in an article about the Shetlands. “I don’t sleep so well if the water’s completely calm, but that doesn’t happen very often.”
2. Oban to Castlebay, Scotland
One of Scotland’s most spectacular ferry journeys, this venerable service, courtsey of CalMac, chugs out of Oban Bay at 13.40 every day and takes nearly five hours to reach the port of Catlebay on Barra, part of the Outer Hebrides. En route the vessel flirts with the southern tip of Lismore island before sailing up the scenic Sound of Mull and crossing the choppy waters of the Atlantic Ocean. Alternatively, hop aboard the equally scenic service to South Uist.
3. Liverpool to Belfast, England
Hop between two of the United Kingdom’s most famous ports on Stena Line's Liverpool to Belfast ferry, which departs Merseyside twice a day (though be warned, the overnight service can get a bit lively). As well as being linked by this ferry, which skirts around the Isle of Man en route, the two cities share a connection to the ill-fated Titanic, which was registered in Liverpool and built in Belfast. Both have exhibitions telling the story of the doomed vessel, as well as a host of other museums exploring everything from The Beatles to The Troubles.
4. Gutcher to Belmont, Scotland
The United Kingdom’s northernmost inhabited island, Unst has numerous claims to fame: its sandy beaches, bountiful birdlife, medieval castle and Viking fire festival are just some of the attractions. Getting there means taking the ferry from the neighbouring island of Yell; it’s only a short, 10-minute hop but that’s long enough to appreciate the rugged scenery and realise why, legend has it, Unst inspired Robert Louis Stevenson to write Treasure Island.
5. Belfast to Cairnryan, Northern Ireland
Sure, the scenery is remarkable, but perhaps the best thing about this ferry crossing is the fact you can spend most of it in the onboard sauna. Indeed the boats plying the water between Belfast and Cairnryan, a small village in Scotland, are not just any boats. Oh no: Stena Line’s “superfast” ferries are equipped with Nordic spas, luxury suites and restaurants serving three-course meals. Not bad for a crossing that takes just 2.5 hours.
6. Dublin to Liverpool, Ireland
More like a mini-cruise than a ferry trip, P&O's Dublin to Liverpool service takes eight hours to cross the often-choppy Irish Sea, but what a way to travel: passengers can enjoy two complimentary meals during the journey, which could include a full English breakfast, high tea or a four-course dinner. There are up to four crossings a day, depending on the time of year, and prices start from £69 one way.
7. Rossaveal to Kilronan, Ireland
Floating in the so-called “Wild Atlantic Way”, the bleak but beautiful Aran Islands have been the inspiration behind poetry, plays and… Father Ted. Roughly 1,200 inhabitants live on these windswept islands, which can be reached via a scenic ferry that operates between Rossaveal and the village of Kilronan on Inis Mor. The ferry can accommodate push bikes but not cars and takes 40 minutes, during which time you can admire the rugged beauty of the Irish coast, listen to the seabirds and look forward to reaching a destination unspoiled by progress.
Read more: A quick guide to Galway and the Aran Islands
8. Sandbanks to Studland, England
Though this blink-and-you’ll-miss-it jaunt across Poole Harbour lacks the wow factor of a voyage to the Shetland Islands, this iconic chain ferry is something of a journey through time. On one side of the harbour you have the millionaire’s paradise that is Sandbanks, with its flashy properties and fancy wine bars, and on the other side you have Purbeck, where steam engines, rustic villages and the crumbling ruins of Corfe Castle take passengers back to a bygone epoch. Quick tip: avoid crossing in the summer holidays when the ferry is horribly oversubscribed.
