Jeremy Scott, fashion’s very own court jester, chose an inside joke as his ruse this season at Moschino, and, ooh, it had a delicious edge. He mocked his peers who won’t stop whining about their — handsomely compensated — workload. “The fashion system has sped up so much that, this time, I didn’t have time to finish my work,” Scott teased backstage before the show. “All I have to show is my sketches.”
Naturally, that wasn’t true. Scott’s collection was more than complete. It was mega-merchandised with clothes, shoes, bags, jewelry and hats galore — to the extent that perhaps a few exits stood to be trimmed. The punch line landed within the first few looks — white dresses and suits scribbled in and mocked up with color and print as if they were still two-dimensional drawings on a piece of paper. The silhouettes were on the dressed up side of the Moschino spectrum, derived from the Eighties with prim suits and nouveau riche poufs. Some were tied off with bows. All were worn with flattened boater hats and tights embroidered with fancy-crude black scribbles.
Like any good performer, Scott sticks to a well-hewn formula: warm ‘em up with daywear that makes them giggle and let the big laughs roll for the finale. His atelier came to life like a scene from a Disney cartoon. A bolt of fabric became the train to a black wrap dress. A pair of branded silver shears became a highly conceptual gown. A gold thimble crowned a dress made of shimmying tiers of gold needles. Yellow measuring tape was the grand ruffled stole to a muslin bodysuit. The silhouettes followed the lines of classic couture, and the show ended in haute tradition: Gigi Hadid as the bride, her yards-long train carried midair behind her by a swarm of butterflies operated by puppeteers.
In the end, most customers will buy the collection because of the brand and its rock-solid identity, not the inside-the-fashion-system joke, which Scott doesn’t buy into either, by the way. Asked if, in all seriousness, he thinks fashion has sped out of control, he said, “I have trained my whole life to do this, so, no, I’m fine. I don’t have a problem getting my work done.” Don’t let the gags fool you, Scott is a pro.
Launch Gallery: Moschino RTW Spring 2018