The Moschino Looks Jeremy Scott Should Reboot at H&M
Jeremy Scott is rounding his fourth year at Moschino, which is saying something in this moment of here-today-gone-tomorrow creative directors. If his collections haven’t always been met with critical acclaim—some journalists have dismissed his output as shtick—his tenure has nonetheless been a commercial success. There are lines out the door for his Milan shows, and no wonder, inside people are having fun. Models camp it up on the runway: One season their “singed” dresses actually smoked, another they appeared as living and breathing floral bouquets, and at a third they were painted head-to-toe alien green. Heck, they’ve even roller-skated.
As for the crowd, a 2015 documentary about Scott dubbed him “the people’s designer,” and it’s a title he earned again early this morning, when H&M announced Scott’s Moschino as its newest designer collaborator at a Coachella after-party. “I no longer do my collaboration line with Adidas, and sadly, until now, I haven’t really had another way to service the fandom,” Scott told Vogue’s Nick Remsen. “This collaboration makes me feel like I’m able to give something again. Lots of young people love my clothes . . . and we make phone cases and little things like that, but in order to have a lewk, I love that this is now something that will be affordable.” Read Remsen’s exclusive story here.
Beyond our exclusive sneak peek pics of Gigi Hadid in the new collection (she’s the collaboration’s face), we won’t know until deep into the fall what Scott decides to do for Moschino [tv] H&M—the on-sale date is November 8—but we’ve given some thought to what we’d like to see. Here, Vogue editors share their favorite Moschino by Jeremy Scott moments.
“I’m a sucker for anything Betty Boop–related (she is my cartoon spirit animal and also totally underrated!), so I’m hoping that her face is in the mix of the collaboration.” —Chioma Nnadi, Fashion Features Director
“When I think of Jeremy Scott’s Moschino, I first remember the Barbie collection from Spring 2015, which I enjoyed at the time for its energy and the diverse cast remade in Barbie’s image (particularly the lovely Soo Joo Park—a Korean Barbie, who’d have thought?). What I appreciate about Scott is that he knows what he likes and isn’t afraid to be loud and in-your-face about it. No lack of personality there, and some of these cute pink separates feel very trendy for now.” —Monica Kim, Fashion News Editor
“I had friends who’ve never paid attention to fashion shows texting me about the Jackie O aliens from Fall 2018. My mom was into it, too! Something about that recognizable Jackie hair, the neon paint, and those timeless ’60s silhouettes had far-reaching appeal. How cute would those bright skirtsuits be at H&M prices? Or even a few in work-appropriate black or navy—something those girls could wear to work. It’s hard to imagine a designer other than Jeremy making that retro look feel genuinely fun. (And speaking of skirtsuits . . . the iconic McDonald’s-meets-Coco Chanel suits from Fall 2014 would fly off the shelves!)” —Emily Farra, Fashion News Writer
“This was cut a little tight for me, but Scott’s first-outing smiley-culture homage to Moschino’s global codes was a winner I’d love to buy into again. And check the loafers. . . . In the absence of a Golden Arches iteration for men, or a Gilbert & George archive print, this is the collection I’d want to see rehashed by the fast fashion Swedes. Jeremy Scott is, I reckon, American fashion’s most underrated designer—the snobs can’t handle him—but this collaboration should fly.” —Luke Leitch, Contributing Editor
“I would love to be able to buy one of Jeremy Scott’s Resort ’18 bombshell Vegas babe dresses from H&M. It certainly wasn’t his wildest collection for Moschino, but it had just the right amount of playfulness to it for me. He will appeal to the H&M customer too if he can strike that balance.” —Brooke Bobb, Fashion News Writer
“One does not go to Moschino for an everyday investment piece and I hope Jeremy Scott does exactly that with his H&M collaboration: nothing basic and everything out of the ordinary. For keepsake. One of my first designer pieces was a Moschino iPhone case that was shaped like a teddy bear—impractical, unreasonably large, and a statement. I would love to see retro two-piece sets like this one from his Spring 2015 collection, and of course some Barbie pumps to go with it.” —Anny Choi, Market Editor
“I’m a fan of a majority of Jeremy’s collections for Moschino; I’m kind of craving a gold leather piece. I feel like a version of this jacket would be just the right amount of extra. I also think if played down, like with a white tee and faded jeans and white sneakers, it could look pretty cool. Also: I’d never buy a bedazzled Speedo at a designer price point. But at H&M levels I may consider it. Why not.” —Nick Remsen, Contributing Editor
“Jeremy has a reputation as a party boy, and it’s absolutely true that his Moschino shows are the most fun you’ll have in Milan. What often goes unregistered and underappreciated is his activism. His Fall 2017 collection was a subtle protest against fashion-industry waste couched in some seriously cool outerwear. I’d love to see this moleskin trench covered with shipping labels and packing tape at H&M.” —Nicole Phelps, Vogue Runway Director
