Missoni Men’s Spring 2023

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Filippo Grazioli’s first collection for Missoni fit in well with the leisurely mood in Milan — and lightening up the weight of the brand’s core knitwear was the ideal response to global warming and the heatwave hitting the city this week.

Grazioli, who joined Missoni as creative director in March, said during a preview interview that he has no intention of overhauling the brand’s pillars and codes, but he’s revisiting them with a youthful flair, keeping comfort top of mind. And knitwear is synonymous with both Missoni and comfort, he believes, as it is “always pleasant, caressing and accompanying our body movements.” Cue the feather-light canary yellow knit with a melange pattern of intarsia in different shades of that color. Clearly, Grazioli believes monochrome doesn’t necessarily have to be eschewed at Missoni.

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Paying tribute to founder Ottavio Missoni’s own style, cardigans continue to be key in the lineup but new patchwork techniques that revisit his artistic tapestry patterns added a lightness to the designs.

The brand’s signature zigzag motif was revisited as a detail on the front pocket, collar or cuffs of a white poplin shirt, but also as a pattern that fades away on a sleeve or the back of a deconstructed knit pantsuit. At times it was designed with a 3D effect. The easy suits further conveyed Grazioli’s idea of a relaxed wardrobe.

This was an edited and confident collection that showed how Grazioli, who honed his experience working with Martin Margiela and Riccardo Tisci, is in a good spot and has the potential to evolve this storied and much-loved Italian brand.

Launch Gallery: Missoni Men's Spring 2023

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