Middleburg Virginia aka the Hamptons with horses should be on your US bucket list
Virginia could feel like a home away from home, especially for Brits who grew up in our scenic countryside. Surrounded by lush green farmland, this beautiful, historic state promises all four seasons, which we almost experienced during our short stay. Known as the nation’s horse, hunt and wine capital, or, the Hamptons with horses, we visited Middleburg; a charming and quaint town that won the heart of Jackie Kennedy. It's got wine, walks and lots of outdoorsy adventures and with Jackie O's seal of approval we were sold.
Where to stay in Middleburg
The Salamander resort and spa is immediately impressive. Pulling up the pristine driveway, I thought of those stately homes you see in comforting childhood American movies, with white pillars and an immaculate lawn. Inside, we were welcomed by a chic, grand lounge that felt just as homey. People were relaxing as if it were their own living room, sat back on the deep comfy sofas with their dog napping by the fireplace, acres of land stretching out through the windows behind. Even though it was Spring we quickly noted how magical this place would be at Christmas. The familiar atmosphere make sense, as we discover CEO and founder of Salamander resorts Sheila Johnson's aim is for you to feel like you're walking into her own home. The various artworks and furniture are handpicked by Sheila, and even small details, like the reception being tucked around the corner, changes the vibe from hotel to family estate.
I stayed in the Terrace King guest room, the word 'room' meaning 'ginormous suite the literal size of my flat', featuring dark mahogany wood dressers, plush deep brown velvet couch, a king size bed with draped curtains and double doors that lead out to a private patio. I immediately made a tea (delighted to find they had English Breakfast!) and embraced the peacefulness of it all.
What to do in Middleburg
Go hiking
I recommend packing your walking boots because America's national parks are famously spectacular, and well, Virginia has 10 of them. With 500+ miles of trails we headed to nearby Shenandoah National Park. We opted for the Stony Man trail; an easy breezy route that briefly joins the famous Appalachian Trail which passes through 14 states. We headed out on a particularly misty day, spotting fields of wildflowers at every turn, led by our park ranger Claire Comer. The foggy conditions made for an eerie, atmospheric daytime stroll - especially after our ranger informed us we might spot a bear - but the beauty of our surroundings was still very clear even if the viewpoint wasn't, and alas, no furry encounters.
Go wine tasting
Sipping on wine in a gorgeous, countryside backdrop feels like a duty in Virginia since they have over 300 vineyards and counting. We spent a boozy lunchtime getting to know Jenni McCloud, a former tech entrepreneur who sold her company for $40mil and thought she'd have a crack at wine, founding Chrysalis Vineyards. It wasn't just the wine we drank that was made from their homegrown grapes, but the cheese we feasted on was made from the dairy cows also raised on the land, too. Dreamy.
Go to the spa
Back at the Salamander, there are many wellness endeavours you can enjoy. Happy to start with a pamper sesh, I booked a Cashmere Quench body wrap treatment at their 5* spa, never having had a body wrap before. I was worried I'd find being coddled in what looked like tin foil less relaxing and more silly, but the whole thing was gloriously indulgent. The treatment included a full body massage and I came away with the softest, smoothest skin and a calm mind. Post-treatment we had a dip in their rooftop spa pool, where you can also rent private cabanas to fully extend the self care.
Engage in outdoor activities
If self care to you is a little more active, the Salamander use their 340 acres of land for a host of outdoorsy pursuits including axe throwing and archery (they also have fire pits where you can cook s'mores - adorable). We signed up for the Equine Communication experience at their on-site stables which houses 12 horses, and spent the morning learning how to connect with the majestic creatures. It transpired as a lesson in leadership, clear communication and the importance of body language. You can also partake in riding lessons, or if you're more experienced hour long trails around the grounds.
Where we ate in Middleburg
King Street Oyster Bar
Located on the idyllic East Washington street - the town of Stars Hollow came to mind - we perched up at King Street Oyster Bar and tucked into the biggest platter of oysters sourced from both the east and west coast with names like Stormy Bay and Sweet Jesus. That was just an amuse-bouche, as we continued to feast on jumbo chicken wings with buffalo sauce, shanghai sea bass and marinated Thai steak salad. All delicious and good, hearty portions.
The Red Fox Inn & Tavern
On the same street you can grab a pint at The Red Fox Inn & Tavern, dating back to 1728. The staff, like everywhere in Middleburg, went out of their way to make us feel welcome. More than willing to indulge us in the history on the building - it was built by a cousin of George Washington, FYI - after enquiring about Jackie O, they gave us a printed copy of the letter she wrote to the owners to graciously thank them for her time there.
Harrimans
You can join for breakfast, lunch and dinner at the Salamander's Harrimans restaurant; a large circular dining room with wooden beams and floor to ceiling windows that flood the space with light. But if you're after something really unique treat yourself to an evening at the Harrimans Cooking Studio. We witnessed their in-house chefs cooking up a devised set menu that consisted of chilled pea soup, Hudson Valley Foie Gras (ethically prepared), Kansas City Strip steak and a pavlova meringue. Available to book for both guests and visitors, it's an ideal way to celebrate a special occasion or just finish off a very memorable trip.
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