Microshading Is The New Microblading—Here's What You Need To Know
If you’ve ever tried to get fuller, more defined-looking brows, chances are you’ve used an eyebrow pencil or you may have even researched all there is to know about microblading or brow lamination. The former is an extremely popular semi-permanent technique involves tattooing hair-like strokes along the browline to create the illusion of thicker arches—but it’s not for everyone.
In some cases, a similar brow-boosting method known as microshading may be a better option. But why? And what exactly does it entail? We tapped three top brow experts for the full lowdown. Ahead, find everything you need to know about microshading, how it works, and if it could be right for you.
Meet the experts: Kendra Bray is a brow artist and founder of Better Brows & Beauty in New York City. Bethany Wolosky is a permanent makeup artist based in Brooklyn. Joey Healy is a brow expert based in New York City.
What is microshading?
Also referred to as “powder brows” and “shaded brows,” microshading is a design technique used in semi-permanent makeup for eyebrows, says Kendra Bray of Better Brows & Beauty, a permanent makeup studio based in New York City. Microshading utilizes a mix of manual microblading and machine shading techniques to fill in sparse areas of the brow, which creates a super natural-looking effect, according to Bethany Wolosky, a permanent makeup artist based in Brooklyn.
The benefits of microshading
According to Wolosky, microshading is an excellent option for those lacking density through the arch and tail of the brow. "It’s a great way to enhance this area while still keeping the brow very natural-looking,” she says. Bray adds that it’s a foolproof way to get fuller, more defined brows that still look very natural. “There’s a wide range of looks that can be achieved with microshading,” she says. “You can keep it soft and super natural or bold and more defined."
The difference between microshading and microblading
There are some unique characteristics that differentiate these two techniques, and understanding them can help you make a more information decision on which is right for you. “Microblading entails tattooing hairlike strokes throughout the entire brow using a manual tool, while microshading combines the precision of microblading with the softness of machine shading,” explains Wolosky. “Generally, the front portion of the brow is delicately microbladed with hairlike strokes, while the body, arch, and tail are shaded for depth and dimension.”
“Think of microblading almost like making little paper cuts, whereas microshading is making a series of little dots that can look almost like powder, which doesn't look as placed because you're not seeing any lines,” adds Joey Healy, a brow expert based in New York City.
Bray is a big fan of the technique for a very natural-looking—and super tailored—results. “You can keep the look soft and airy by adding fewer dots of pigment, or make it very saturated and defined by adding a lot of dots in the brow,” she explains.
Are there any risks or dangers associated with microshading?
There can be—but this goes for any and all permanent makeup procedures. And you can easily sidestep these by choosing a qualified professional to perform your microshading. “If it’s performed by someone who is under-qualified there’s a risk of scarring the skin, eyebrow hair loss, or infection," explains Bray. “You want to make sure you are seeing a certified and highly experienced artist.”
Also, keep in mind that, as with any cosmetic tattoo, the area will appear darker and more intense for a few days, but this is totally normal and expected with permanent makeup, adds Wolosky.
How much does microshading typically cost?
This all depends on where you go and the experience level of your artist. “Cost will vary depending on the city you’re in and the level of experience your artist has, but generally you should expect to pay around $600 to $900 for this service.”
Bray shares what she charges at her own studio in New York City. “The total process costs $1,250, which includes two appointments,” she says. “Then refresh appointments, which are only done on an as needed basis, cost $350.”
What to expect from a microshading appointment
While your experience can vary slightly depending on where you go, the overall process should be fairly similar. Microshading is a two-appointment process, according to Bray: “For the first appointment I block off two and a half hours and we start with a consultation to discuss what the client is looking to achieve and design techniques that could achieve that for us,” she explains. “I give them options and show pictures to help figure out exactly what they’re looking to achieve before numbing the area and having them fill out a medical release form.”
From there, it’s on to the design stage. “During this part I measure and sketch out the shape with just a makeup pencil which gives us a chance to see some options on the client’s face before moving forward,” Bray adds. “Once we find an approved shape, I start with pigment which is usually about 45 minutes of me working on the skin.” Bray also notes that she shows her clients the progress she’s making as she’s working so they can offer any feedback they have. “We then allow the area to heal for six weeks before doing a touchup appointment, which allows us to see the healed results and make any additions or perfections that are needed,” she explains.
How to take care of your microshading
Avoid sunlight, blood thinners, and submerging yourself in water: This will also vary depending on your artist’s specific protocol, but all three experts advise avoiding UV rays, water, and blood thinners after the service. “You want to stay away from anything that can thin the blood, like alcohol and aspirin,” says Healy. "You also want to avoid the sun and excessively sweating.”
Cleanse and moisturize regularly: Wolosky says she provides all of her clients with a cleanser and healing balm to use after the service. “I have my clients wash their brows morning and night with the provided cleanser and then apply a small amount of the healing balm three times a day for 10 days,” she says. “It is very important to follow whatever aftercare your specific artist gives you.”
Make sure to schedule touch-ups: “Generally, it’s recommended that you touch up your brows every 18 to 24 months, however many people can go longer between touch ups,” Wolosky says. According to Bray, everyone’s brows fade at different rates. “We only touch up the color when it is needed—for some clients this could be 1.5 years, while for some it could be five years,” she says. “We do want to allow enough pigment to fade before working again and again because if you don’t allow enough fading, it’s very hard to maintain a soft look throughout the years.”
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