Michael and Matt’s LGBTQ+ Guide to Osaka
Escape with Michael and Matt
Image by Matthew Schueller and Michael Lindsay
Husbands Matthew Schueller and Michael Lindsay recently traveled across the Pacific Ocean to Osaka, Japan, and returned to share their experiences.
The happy, smart, and sexy duo are no strangers to Out Travelers, who were introduced to the married world travelers and their meet-cute in our Spring 2022 print edition.
The pair married in 2018, and when they’re not posting about their travels and life together on their social media, Schueller works as a nurse and Lindsay is a practicing dentist.
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Be sure to follow Michael and Matt at their blog (www.michaelandmatt.com), Instagram (@michaelandmatt), YouTube (@michaelandmatt), and TikTok (@michaelandmatt1).
Where do you recommend eating?
Image by Matthew Schueller and Michael Lindsay
Osaka is a foodie's paradise
While there are a ton of great restaurants in Osaka, there are also a few “must-try” street food recipes when visiting the city. Perhaps Osaka’s most well-known and iconic street food is takoyaki. Small pieces of octopus are fried in savory pancake balls and topped with sauces. Walking through Dotonbori, you may even see some locals carrying piles of takoyaki with heaps of green onion or poached egg on top. Another favorite is okonomiyaki. Made with flour, eggs, tempura scraps, cabbage, pork belly, and topped with a variety of condiments, okonomiyaki is best enjoyed in restaurants with griddles for the centers of the tables to cook right in front of you, and an Asahi on the side. Lastly, kushikatsu is Osaka’s traditional fried food. A variety of meats, vegetables, and fish are individually skewered, coated with panko, and deep-fried for enjoyment. You can find a delicious assortment of kushikatsu at restaurants all around Osaka and street vendors alike. If you’re feeling adventurous, stop by the Jumbo-Tsuribune Tsurikichi in Shinsekai. Walking by, you’ll see huge pools of water filled with different kinds of fish. Customers actually get to catch their own fish for their meal! We went in to give it a try, and after 40 minutes of attempting to catch a fish, I gave up and just ordered a nice meal off the menu. It was both hilarious and entertaining. Unexpectedly, we had a blast – and the food was great.
Where are the best places to stay?
Image by Matthew Schueller and Michael Lindsay
Royal Classic Osaka (left) and Hotel Zentis (right)
There are thousands of hotels in Osaka. The choices can seem to most a bit overwhelming. We made our selection based on location and comfort, which is how we landed at The Royal Classic Osaka. Giving new life to the historic Shin-Kabukiza kabuki theater, the hotel is a towering figure in the Namba district and just a five-minute walk from Dotonbori, Osaka’s most prominent and well-known neighborhood. Famous for its neon signs and delicious street food, it’s exactly where we wanted to stay – in the middle of Japan’s urban madness. Opening in 2019, the modern hotel kept its original facade and structure of old kabuki theater which highlights its royal appearance amongst the surrounding modern skyscrapers. Rising to the 18th floor, the view took our breath away as we looked out amongst countless buildings for as far as our eyes could see. With floor-to-ceiling windows, we felt as if we could stay there and watch the city for hours. But after getting settled in, our stomachs begged us to venture out, so we started our exploration of the city. Other fantastic hotels in the area are the Swissotel Nankai and the Centara Grand Hotel. Both border alongside Namba Parks, an enormous outdoor shopping mall with beautiful city views. Outside of the city center, Hotel Zentis is another fantastic accommodation in Dojimahama, and just minutes away by subway to all the attractions near Dotonobori.
What’s the LGBTQ+ culture like there?
Image by Matthew Schueller and Michael Lindsay
Views from the Omeda Sky Building
The LGBTQ+ culture in Osaka is unlike any other place in the world. Not knowing much about how gay-friendly Osaka was, I started my trip skeptical. However, once I learned that most bars in Osaka are small enough only to fit seven to ten people, and are literally stacked on top of each other, I was intrigued. With over 300 gay bars throughout the city, Osaka’s LGBTQ+ culture is alive and well. The most notorious gayborhood, Doyamacho is located within walking distance of Umeda station and is completely packed with informal bars known as izakayas with plenty of opportunities for karaoke. Our favorites include GrandSlam and Frenz FrenZY Rainbow Haven, the latter we had a blast meeting other travelers over a game of Mario Kart. The gay culture isn’t just limited to one neighborhood. There are gay bars and clubs throughout the city. Near Dotonbori, Cafe LA hosts drag shows in collaboration with the local drag group, Haus of Kinki. In Namba, Bar DADDY is a cozy cocktail bar located on the 4th story of an unassuming building. The bartender is welcoming, and friendly, and might even cook you up a meal. Osaka’s LGBTQ+ scene is eclectic, crazy, and so much fun. No matter what establishment you may be walking into, it’s sure to be a surprise as there’s no telling what to expect when exploring Osaka’s nightlife.
What are the must-do’s while visiting?
Image by Matthew Schueller and Michael Lindsay
Osaka Castle (left) and Shitenno-ji Temple (right)
It’s easy to get overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle of Osaka. The city is a sprawl, and from a high view looks endless. So what better way to see the city than from one of the best views in the city? The Umeda Sky Building is an architectural wonder – two 40-story skyscrapers connected at the top by a donut-shaped viewing center. Escalators and glass elevators zigzag through the wide atrium between the two buildings. Opening most days at 9:30 a.m., it’s best to arrive early to beat the crowds. Out of everything there is to see in Osaka, we were extremely excited to explore Shinsekai, the district just adjacent to Shitenno-ji Temple. Reminiscent of early 20th-century Japan, Shinsekai was supposed to become a showcase of the Japanese industrial revolution and an attraction for tourists from all over the world. Now, divided into North and South, the district is an eclectic mix of buildings that almost resembles a carnival. Half of the district is modeled after Paris while the other half is modeled after Coney Island. At the center, Tsutenkaku Tower is visible from every corner of the neighborhood. Modeled after the Eiffel Tower, there’s even a 60-meter slide you can ride down while getting glorious views from above.
What are the top Instagrammable spots?
Image by Matthew Schueller and Michael Lindsay
A Namba alley at night
Apart from Osaka’s modern wonders, there are a few great sites to explore that honor Japan’s historic past and provide great photo opportunities. Shitenno-ji Temple, Osaka Castle, and Sumiyoshi Taisha Shrine are a few of the most sought-after attractions in the city for their beauty and history. For a great night photography opportunity, check out TeamLabs Botanical Gardens. TeamLabs creates incredible visual and audio experiences through interactive art pieces. In the gardens, we were immersed in a forest full of other-worldly light displays, music, and sound from every direction. Amongst the displays are statues that modify the area when you touch them. Wandering through the natural scenery and exhibits, it’s an experience for the senses and makes for great photos.
What’s your favorite memory from there?
Image by Matthew Schueller and Michael Lindsay
Inside the Swissotel Nankai, there’s a bar on the top floor overlooking the city. We decided to stop by Bar 36 during happy hour for a cocktail. Once we arrived at the 36th floor, we stepped out to find shelves and shelves of plants growing in a hydroponic system. The urban garden was full of herbs and vegetables that Bar 36 uses for their recipes and cocktails. What was so striking about it was the juxtaposition of the urban garden against the windows that looked out over the city. Even amongst an urban jungle, there’s a soilless garden that’s thriving better than mine back home! As the sun set over Osaka, we walked around Bar 36, looking in each direction as we watched the neon lights switch on in Dotonbori. Between the cocktails made with fresh ingredients and the panoramic views, the memory reminds me of just how much the city of Osaka surprised me as an innovative, warm, and vibrant destination.
Be sure to follow Michael and Matt at their blog (www.michaelandmatt.com), Instagram (@michaelandmatt), YouTube (@michaelandmatt), and TikTok (@michaelandmatt1).
