Meryll Rogge RTW Spring 2024

Anyone who’s ever lost their luggage in transit will know the feeling Meryll Rogge wanted to evoke with her creatively cobbled together spring collection. Her make-do silhouettes channeled the anything goes eclecticism of airport dressing, inspired by paparazzi snaps of people pictured in transport hubs through the decades, showed in deliberate slow motion with a presentation lasting nearly 45 minutes — a comment on fast fashion and its foibles and a bit like the wait before a flight.

The Belgian designer stitched crumpled evening satin with big rhinestone embellishments onto sporty jersey to create off-kilter gowns, as if the wearer was flying straight from a night on the tiles. They had no skirts at the back, layered over jaunty denim. There were shirts from a Hawaiian holiday — a cropped version with a frilly collar was particularly cute — and bleached fabrics inspired by the work of Ed Ruscha. Blazers were transformed into skirts, chinos into knicker-like shorts, and offset poplin shirts mingled with baseball caps, cosy double-faced merino knits, hoodies, scarves and comforting outerwear to envelop the body on a sleepless night. Leather belts played a key role, pulling in those borrowed khaki pants to fit — something that will undoubtedly resonate with the thrift-store generation and its anything-goes aesthetic.

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Beneath the clever play and creative chaos there were plenty of appealing wardrobe options to accompany Meryll Rogge on a journey far.

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Launch Gallery: Meryll Rogge RTW Spring 2024

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