Meet the Designers Making Their New York Fashion Week Debuts This Season
Before you know it, the most chaotic and talent-packed week of the New York fashion calendar (well, one of two) will descend onto the city. The Spring 2024 edition of New York Fashion Week promises a star-studded lineup, marked by the return of industry legend Ralph Lauren and a stacked roster of new names making their debuts.
With unbridled creativity and fresh outlooks on fashion, these first-timers are ready to shake up the New York Fashion Week status quo. From Sho Konishi and Fforme to Advisry and Grace Ling, the pool of fresh talent runs deep. Keep reading to learn more about them all.
Advisry
Photo: Courtesy of Advisry.
Founded by Keith Herron in 2014, multi-disciplinary brand Advisry released its first ready-to-wear collection last year. It's found its place at the intersections of music, film and fashion, its designs worn by stars like Steve Lacy and Tyler the Creator. Now, Advisry is bringing its vision to the New York Fashion Week calendar for the first time, with a runway show on Sept. 10.
Chan Chit Lo
Photo: Courtesy of Chan Chit Lo
Chan Chit Lo is built on the idea that luxury is born out of how materials are dealt with, rather than which materials may be used. Designer Venus Lo specializes in knitwear, focusing on handcrafted examinations of the most mundane of things. The brand is hosting its first New York Fashion Week activation — a presentation and installation — on Sept. 10.
Fforme
Photo: Courtesy of FFORME
Paul Helbers is an alum of Maison Margiela, Louis Vuitton and most recently, The Row. Last fall, he launched Fforme, with the goal of elevating everyday garments — coats, knitwear, leather staples — with powerful, sharp silhouettes. The Fall 2023 collection debuted in a gallery in Chelsea; now, the brand is staging its first runway on the official New York Fashion Week calendar, on Sept. 10.
Sho Konishi
Photo: Jemal Countess/Getty Images for Runway 7
Sho Konishi's eponymous brand prides itself on its provocative, transformative designs. (He's a graduate of both the Paris College of Art and Parsons, as well as Tokyo's Mode Gakuen College of Fashion and Design. He's also worked as a costume designer.) The brand staged its first runway in Tokyo back in March, but for Spring 2024, it will be producing a virtual showcase with the CFDA on Sept. 13.
Grace Ling
Photo: Dolly Faibyshev/WWD via Getty Image
A graduate of Parsons and Central Saint Martin, Grace Ling worked at Thom Browne and The Row prior to launching her namesake brand during the pandemic. In 2022, it was selected for Net-A-Porter's Vanguard Program and was featured in the Metropolitan Museum of Art's exhibit "In America: A Lexicon in Fashion." It's also been worn by celebrities like Ciara, Hari Nef, Chrishell Stause and many more. Now, Grace Ling will showcase Spring 2024 on Sept. 8, as part of New York Fashion Week.
Retrofête
Photo: Courtesy of Retrofête
You probably already know Retrofête's party-ready designs (worn by everyone from Taylor Swift to Beyoncé), but the New York-based brand co-founded by Aviad Klin and Ohad Seroya is making its New York Fashion Week debut with a runway show on Sept. 11.
Bishme Cromartie
Photo: Courtesy of Bishme Cromartie
Born and raised in Baltimore, Bishme Cromartie began designing when he was still in elementary school. Many years later, he joined the 17th season of "Project Runway" — he didn't win, but his appearance on the show garnered him critical acclaim, with Vogue stating that his work "sculpts and celebrates a woman's body." He's making his runway debut on Sept. 12, with a Spring 2024 collection all about recognizing how everyone is right where they belong.
YONY
Illustration: Courtesy of YONY
Founded in 2020, Johnny Schwartz's menswear-focused line YONY will stage its debut fashion week presentation on Sept. 7. The Los Angeles-based brand leans into a refined approach to Americana and boasts Justin Bieber and Pete Davidson among its fans.
Buci
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Launched by Parsons student Mishka Ivanovic, Buci is a made-in-New-York brand committed to using sustainably-sourced materials. It's hosting a see-now-buy-now runway — its first — on Sept. 7.
Jovani
Photo: Courtesy of Jovani
Jovani has four decades of eveningwear under its belt (and has been a hot topic among certain New York housewives), but there's still room for new experiences: The brand will have its first-ever runway show on Sept. 8, featuring its latest ready-to-wear creations, as well as designs that build on Jovani's heritage.
Nardos
Photo: Ilya S. Savenok/Getty Images for Nardos Design
Nardos Imam founded her eponymous evening and bridal brand in 2012, and is now preparing for its first-ever presentation on Sept. 8.
Studio Wenjüe Lu
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Co-founded by Wenjue Lu and Chufeng Fang in 2020, Studio Wenjüe Lu will stage a presentation and performance piece titled "Neither" on Sept. 13. The collection on display aims to rebel against the industry's fascination with labels in the name of creativity.
Diotima
Photo: Bryan Bedder/Getty Images
Diotima's founder Rachel Scott designs intricate crochet creations that serve as a love letter to her Jamaican roots. Scott also designs tailored wool garments, sometimes even combining crochet elements with a tailored garment that cleverly juxtaposes structure and movement. After the brand's founding in 2021, Diotima has quickly been on the rise as a finalist of both the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund and 2023 LVMH Prize. Now, the brand is making its New York Fashion Week debut on Sept. 11.
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