Meet the Barraquito, the Canary Islands' Answer to the Espresso Martini

This warm, low-ABV coffee cocktail from the island of Tenerife is perfect for the winter months.

Espresso martinis are still having their moment in the sun, and although we're totally not mad about it, an equally delicious (and caffeine-forward) riff would be a welcome alternative; enter the barraquito, the answer to boozy, coffee-based cocktail lovers' dreams.

Hailing from the island of Tenerife, the barraquito has a long history in the drinking culture of the Canary Islands. Crafted from a combination of espresso, Licor 43, condensed milk, frothed whole milk, and the essential components of lemon peel and cinnamon, this complex cocktail, is unlike the classic espresso martini, served hot. More importantly, it offers a textured, tasty, and lower-ABV alternative to its boozier martini counterpart, as well as insight into the local culture of the island.

In a quest to learn a bit more about the drink  after a visit to the island, where I consumed copious amounts of this creamy, espresso-based libation, I enlisted the help of local hospitality expert José Gaspar Hernández Álvarez.. A native to the Canary Islands, Hernández Álvarez (who goes by Gaspar) spent 12 years of his childhood in Great Britain, then ultimately returned to Tenerife. I met him while staying at the Hotel GF Victoria, which is located on the southern side of the island. Contrary to the local fisherman villages in the north part of Tenerife, the island’s southerly area is where a vast majority of its tourism takes place.

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From a local’s perspective, Hernández Álvarez reveals that enjoying a barraquito cocktail is essentially a staple in everyday life on the island. "Ordering a barraquito in any Tenerife bar is a common custom among the locals — [even] as common as ordering an espresso or a coffee with milk," he explains, noting that the drink was first conceptualize at Bar Imperial, located in the island’s capital city of Santa Cruz de Tenerife.

According to Hernández Álvarez, it all began with a local customer of the bar named Sebastián Barraco Rubio, who was referred to locally by his last name, Barraco, or "Barraquito," as a short term of endearment. "This gentleman used to regularly order a long coffee with condensed milk, a glass of Licor 43, a piece of lemon peel, and cinnamon,” he explains. Rather than continuing to order this unique concoction of ingredients by listing them one by one, the team at Bar Imperial began referring to the drink simply as a barraquito, after the man who essentially conceptualized its existence; thus, how the drink was officially born.

While a number of slight variations exist, the general go-to recipe involves adding one tablespoon of condensed milk to a tall glass, followed by one shot Licor 43, one shot of espresso, and frothy whole milk on top in that order, so as to achieve a four to five-tier layered presentation. [Note: The Guide to Canary Islands notes that should you add the frothed milk prior to the coffee, only four layers of color will be present instead of five.]

In addition to its unique ingredients, what makes the barraquito so unique is its beautiful layered presentation, as well as the ritual with which it is enjoyed. "To achieve the separation and differentiation of the elements into three distinct layers, [the cocktail] must be prepared slowly and finished with frothy milk cream," Hernández Álvarez explains. Upon receiving the drink, the ritual of enjoying it incorporates allowing the lemon zest sink to sink to the bottom of the glass, then stirring all ingredients together prior to consuming. Hernández Álvarez notes that should curious cocktail lovers wish to experience the drink in its place of origin, that the Bar Imperial is still up and running in Santa Cruz de Tenerife.

Beyond its distinct flavor profile and one-of-a-kind appearance, Hernández Álvarez highlights the drink's versatility, rendering it an appealing choice to all kinds of cocktail lovers. "This hot beverage has a wide range of consumers, from young people to the elderly," he explains. He finds that the best time of day to enjoy and savor one is during a post-meal conversation, always accompanied by some sweets.

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With regards to the espresso martini, although fans of the former will likely enjoy the barraquito, Hernández Álvarez notes that the two drinks shouldn't be confused with one another, as one is served cold and with heavier amounts of booze. "A barraquito and an espresso martini are undoubtedly two different beverages," he says, stating that he's found that although espresso martini lovers tend to enjoy appreciate the flavor of "pure coffee" more, he finds that anyone who loves the chilled and boozy cocktail will equally appreciate a barraquito.

So what do we love most about it? In short, it’s unique, it speaks to its place of origin, and above all, it’s delicious — and its lower ABV makes it perfect for enjoying all day (and holiday season) long. To that we say, ¡salut!

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