Matty Bovan RTW Spring 2021

Matty Bovan has been busy up in his native Yorkshire: Over the summer, he unveiled Bovan, a collection made from jersey, sweatshirt and sportswear fabrics, with the one-off pieces screenprinted and painted by hand, and pulled together a wild spring collection inspired by his love of Ye Olde Britain.

Called “Future.Olde.England,” it was filled with heraldry shields; printed and hand-painted denim doublets, and leftover Liberty fabrics that were dip-dyed and shaped into giant clusters of print and color. His unmistakable silhouettes — a maelstrom of texture, pattern, Marie Antoinette bustles and swathes of twisted and draped fabrics — were out in force.

Bovan made a brief and fuzzy abstract film showing his process of putting the collection together, although it was difficult to see exactly what was going on. Never mind. The bright blue doublet with military-like medallions made from bottle caps was a winner, as were the vibrant smocked and ruffled skirts.

For some of the prints, Bovan collaborated with the New York artist Will Sheldon, who drew a dragon and a design based on Puck, from “A Midsummer Night’s Dream,” both of which were meant to evoke the myths and stories of England past. They appear on large-scale wrapped “flag” skirts, on Liberty floral denim, and on Latex fabric.

As usual with Bovan, there was a lot going on here, but it was fun to look at, whimsical — escapist — and punk.

“The process has always been so important to me — the mess, the life, the energy,” said the designer. Maybe next time, he could let some of these great pieces stand alone as they risk getting lost in the Bovan creative shuffle.

Launch Gallery: Matty Bovan RTW Spring 2021

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