Material World: Huntsman Launches Smartlite O LPTU; Adidas x DyeCoo

Alexandra Harrell
·5 min read

Material World is a weekly roundup of innovations and ideas within the materials sector, covering news from emerging biomaterials and alternative leathers to sustainable substitutes and future-proof fibers.

Huntsman

In what it’s calling a “footwear first,” Huntsman had developed the Smartlite O liquid thermoplastic polyurethane (LTPU) system. This technology enables the “rapid manufacture” of high-performing, fully recyclable midsoles.

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Unlike expanded forms of TPU, which need intricate steps like supercritical foaming and steam chest molding, the Smartlite O LPTU system, which debuted at the FDRA’s Shoe Sustainability Summit in Portland, Ore., can be processed in one step that uses less water and energy, generating less waste and carbon emissions.

For the launch, Huntsman partnered with the Framas Group, which can produce up to 2 million soling constructions a year with the material.

“For footwear brands pursuing circularity and looking to lower their carbon footprint, Smartlite O LTPU system provides a very clear pathway,” Alexis Bortoluzzi, senior director of global elastomers at Huntsman, said. “The material stands out from the competition, offering multiple advantages over and above PU, ETPU and EVA. A number of big brands have already expressed considerable interest in the technology, and we look forward to working with Framas to bring the material and all its benefits to market.”

Processed on low-pressure casting machines, the system features in-situ polymerization, adhesive-free bonding of midsoles to TPU outsoles, as well as fast de-mold rates. It produces hydrolysis-resistant midsoles for long-lasting, step-in cushioning with a rebound of over 50 percent. Supporting the circular economy, soling units with a Smartlite O LTPU midsole and a TPU outsole can be mechanically repurposed, if the infrastructure is available. If available, manufacturers can mix post-industrial recycled Smartlite content with virgin TPU to make new outsoles and cupsoles, while Huntsman can create bio-based versions of the material.

“Huntsman’s Smartlite O LTPU system is incredibly innovative,” Andreas Quade, executive board director of innovation and technology at Framas, said. “Helping to enable circular projects, it is a definitive step towards more environmentally friendly practices in the footwear industry. We’re excited by the interest the material has already generated and look forward to further discussions about the opportunities it presents.”

DyeCoo x CleanDye

Adidas commissioned a lifecycle assessment (LCA) that found DyeCoo’s waterless dyeing technology—operated by CleanDye’s Vietnam factory—generated 58 percent lower greenhouse gas emissions than conventional textile dyeing vendors. Based on these results, Adidas said it will incorporate DyeCoo’s supercritical CO2 dyeing technology into its supply chain.

The LCA comes as DyeCoo has seen increasing interest in its technology from manufacturers and retailers looking to reduce their carbon footprint. The Dutch company also recently showcased a new range of CO2 dyeing solutions—including a smaller, fully electric CO2 dyeing machine—at ITMA in June.

“We’re thrilled about this report—and that CO2 dyeing is gaining momentum in textile manufacturing,” Kasper Nossent, commercial director at DyeCoo, said. “We look forward to expanding our technology beyond our current customers to other factories around the world in collaboration with our brand partners.”

DyeCoo uses patented technology based on reclaimed CO2 as the dyeing medium in a closed-loop process instead of water. When pressurized, the CO2 becomes supercritical and when in that state, it has a high solvent power, allowing the dye to easily dissolve without the need for added process chemicals.

“The LCA is also a testament to our Vietnam facility, where we use DyeCoo technology to deliver high-quality, sustainably manufactured fabric at competitive prices,” said Simon Weston, ClenaDye’s CEO. “After analyzing the LCA, CleanDye has made further improvements to our process, and we are confident that our carbon emissions are even lower than the already impressive LCA figures.”

The LCA was conducted by third-party consultant Sphera, which compared CleanDye and DyeCoo’s waterless dyeing process to three of Adidas’ conventional suppliers.

“We already know that CO2 dyeing technology dramatically reduces water pollution from textile manufacturing,” said Kenneth Katz, managing director and head of Asia at TAU Investment Management, a New York- and Hong Kong-based private equity firm with controlling interest in CleanDye. “Innovation like this is critical. Twenty percent of industrial water waste comes from textile dyeing. But this report is especially exciting since it demonstrates that DyeCoo’s patented technology and CleanDye’s purpose-built dyeing facility in Vietnam also dramatically reduce carbon emissions.”

PatPat

Global children’s e-commerce brand PatPat has developed Glotech, a patent-pending, proprietary fabric-illuminating technology that blends specially designed materials with traditional yarn to create garments that glow.

Glotech incorporates a lithium battery pack that safely keeps electrical power contained by illuminating light at the source before reflecting that light through flexible Glotech fibers throughout the garment. The small, lightweight rechargeable battery can be removed for machine washing.

“The entire concept was founded by our two founders, Albert Wang and Ken Gao, who are both engineers that set out to sort of reinvent kids apparel using very innovative technology,” Ranu Coleman, head of marketing at PatPat, said. “They were really inspired when they saw Claire Danes wear that glowing dress to the Met Gala, in terms of realizing that there was also a big opportunity in the kids market for something like that.”

Two years in the making, the technology is the result of innovations at PatPat’s factories, which were upgraded with new machinery and “reinvented” raw materials, allowing staff to optimize production and bring fabric-illumination technology to market.

Pontetorto

Italian textile weaver Pontetorto debuted the Super Tecnostretch line of fabric designed to “take comfort and elasticity to a higher level” than previous iterations of the knitted fabric line. The upgrade features a more compact structure, greater resistance to pilling, and better elasticity—attributes designed for the performance-minded customer.

“The idea was born to meet the needs of a market increasingly competitive for performance technology, which leads us to push research in the direction of total comfort and elasticity,” Marco Toccafondi, general manager of Pontetorto, said. Super Tecnostretch represents the “natural evolution” for the Tecnostretch line, he added.

“Suitable for every environment and every occasion, such as outdoor or travel-wear up to athleisure, it is perfect as a second layer and, in come cases, also as a base layer,” Toccafondi continued. “It provides excellent thermal insulation and high breathability, lightness and compactness at the same time and an excellent fit. Thanks to its featherweight, it’s a perfect travel companion.”

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