Marine Serre RTW Spring 2023

Joelle Diderich
·2 min read
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That Marine Serre has developed an almost fanatical following was apparent to anyone who attended her last fashion show, where an unruly crowd of fans outside the venue prevented some invited guests from getting in. She opened her label’s sixth anniversary event to the public, raffling off almost 1,000 invitations online.

They were snapped up in two minutes. “We spent years in confinement, not being able to take advantage of life fully,” said the designer, who requested the last slot of the day so people could stay for the after party.

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A former competitive tennis player, Serre dedicated her State of Soul collection to sports, tapping several athletes to walk in the show at a track and field stadium on the outskirts of Paris, the better to show off her range of swimwear and signature crescent-moon print bodysuits.

After an opening lap by her team, the show kicked off with towering rugby player and reality TV star Kelegh Moutome, wearing a pair of speedos and a flag made of reclaimed scarves. Former soccer player Djibril Cissé, Paralympic gold medalist Alexis Hanquinquant and fencer Margaux Rifkiss were among those that followed.

They were joined by an eclectic cast of celebrities, including singer Jorja Smith, wearing a body-con dress made of strips of upcycled denim studded with hardware, and Madonna’s daughter, Lourdes Leon, who accessorized her bodysuit with oodles of gold chains.

The collection read like a greatest hits compilation, with references to previous designs made of upcycled materials, such as secondhand jeans and T-shirts. It also featured several new prints, including the diamond motif on a robe and pants worn by boxer-turned-model Alexis Chaparro.

As good as they look on ripped bodies, Serre’s designs work for everyone. Body-con dresses, including a hot pink version made from regenerated towels, came in a variety of sizes, but the crescent-moon bodysuits proved the most versatile of all. Dutch Iranian music artist Sevdaliza layered hers with a swimsuit in a new jewel print, held in place by draped scarves.

Serre said the shift to the men’s calendar was timed to the anniversary, but noted that menswear sales grew 36 percent last year, helping to drive total brand revenues to more than 15 million euros. The mainstream presentation and emphasis on sportswear signaled she’s ready to scale up the label even further — and no doubt, Team Marine will be there to cheer her on.

Launch Gallery: Marine Serre Spring 2023

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