Marco Rambaldi Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear: A Sharpened Fashion Message

Martino Carrera
·2 min read

Marco Rambaldi’s fall collection, titled “Memento amori,” or “remember that you must love,” was a journey through time, both of his nascent brand now being asked to expand its reach and scope to scale its growth and of the current times, a discombobulating overload that the designer feels are harsher to navigate.

Since founding his brand, Rambaldi has used it as a platform for social commentary, though most recently this seemed to be restrained as he simply repurposed his key fashion codes — repetita iuvant-style, or repeat, join together, style.

More from WWD

But not for fall, which made for one of his most convincing fashion displays to date, with better production and a sharpened, wittier message.

The designer’s hot-button topics were there, but referenced more subtly. For instance, the body liberation movement inspired the body-con alpaca knit dresses bearing trompe l’oeil drawings of female bodies in underwear or the use of old-school insignias of eroticism, such as the office-appropriate pencil skirt with a high slit, the barely there slipdress, here swathed in Swarovski crystals, and a Kama Sutra pattern subtly evoked on a devoré velvet skirt suit done in collaboration with textile maker Redaelli.

Models strode slowly through the gilded rooms of the neoclassical palazzo to feeble piano music in ladylike vinyl pencil skirts paired with mixed-pattern macramé polo shirts, or girlish miniskirts contrasted by frescolana trucker jackets, rib and cable knit dresses dotted in crystals and handsome, broad-shouldered topcoats.

Rambaldi endorsed the insieme-per.eu initiative of the European Parliament geared at persuading citizens at the upcoming European elections slated for June. A pencil was handed out to show guests and posters reading “believe in yourself, use your vote, believe you can make the difference” hung on the walls.

Gucci’s Sabato De Sarno was in attendance cheerfully clapping as the show inched toward the end to the beat of “Domani è un altro giorno,” or “Tomorrow is another day” by Italian singer Ornella Vanoni.

For more Milan Fashion Week reviews, click here.

Launch Gallery: Marco Rambaldi Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Best of WWD