Mame Kurogouchi RTW Spring 2022
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As she marks the 10th anniversary of her brand’s founding, Maiko Kurogouchi returned to her roots to get inspiration for spring. While prepping a retrospective exhibit at an art museum in her birthplace of Nagano, she recalled memories of her childhood in the mountainous region, which she translated into ethereal prints and original textiles. The video presenting her latest offering was also shot at the museum that hosted her exhibition, with models moving among the “fog sculpture” by artist Fujiko Nakaya, which resides in the museum’s permanent collection.
The look: Kurogouchi showed simple yet elegant shapes including wide-legged trousers, easy tunics and ankle-length dresses, all crafted from elegant fabrics in a range of soft pastels. The basis for the collection came from a painting that the designer herself created after a trip to Nagano: dainty lilac-colored blossoms hidden but barely visible under layers of white paint, like the first spring wildflowers blooming under a carpet of snow. This image was translated into a jacquard fabric with exposed threads. From a distance, it looks almost like a textured solid color, but on closer look, the flowers come into focus.
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Standout pieces: The jacquard was used in long dresses accented by knee-high slits, and complemented with tunics of sheer pink or lilac silk with clear threads woven into it, simulating the glistening effect of morning dew on plants. Kurogouchi also worked with a producer of the gossamer-thin linen used as traditional Japanese mosquito netting to create a more substantial version of the textile, which she turned into slightly sheer wide-legged pants and cropped, high-neck tops. The designer also revisited some of her earliest designs, updating dresses with gently curved necklines and round cutouts designed to accent the beauty of women’s skin and adding similar blazers and knitwear pieces.
Takeaway: With its subtly textured original fabrics, sheer elements and beautifully cut silhouettes, the collection holds an allure both from a distance and when viewed close up, and the fog-filled video added to its mystique. It was a testament to Kurogouchi’s well-deserved success in her first decade designing the brand.
Launch Gallery: Mame Kurogouchi RTW Spring 2022
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