Major remodel of Fort Myers restaurant breathes new life into an Italian favorite — JLB
With new restaurants opening at a mouthwatering rate in Southwest Florida, it’s easy to get distracted.
The 80-plus that debuted or reopened in 2023 were more than enough to keep foodies busy all year long.
And while the shiny and new get most of the attention, tried and true establishments are often overlooked in the scramble.
Lucky for us though, Two Meatballs in the Kitchen in Fort Myers masterfully straddles both worlds thanks to a stunning remodel.
In 2018, Franco Russo bought the restaurant off Daniels Parkway from Sal Basile, who originally opened it in 2008.
At the time, Russo was running Junkanoo Beach and Fresh Catch Bistro, after taking them over for his father, Alfredo, who suddenly died in 2016.
Two Meatballs was Russo’s first restaurant purchase.
“I definitely don’t regret the decision,” Russo said. “I believed in the business. I still believe in it.”
Which is why he closed it down in August for three months to remodel the interior from floor to ceiling.
Remodel makes Two Meatballs sleek and modern
If you haven’t been in a while or if you’ve never been, this is your sign to go.
“It’s a wow in my opinion,” Russo said.
In mine too, beginning with the bar area.
“The whole reason the remodel began was to make the bar bigger,” Russo said. “We doubled the size. It was a really small L with two or three seats on one side and eight or nine on the other. We had a great bar crowd and happy hour but the vibe was off. I figured if we were closing to redo the bar, we might as well do the whole thing.”
The result is luxurious, sleek, modern and lovely, from the hand-painted design on the walls to the LED lights above, below and all around the bar.
That new esthetic, extended throughout the restaurant, hits its stride in the main dining room. The wood-backed chairs and half booths have been replaced with chic two-tops and stylish padded chairs, perfect for private conversations and leisurely lunches. Hanging lights of various shapes and sizes and walls of green complement the look.
“Literally everything in it is brand new except for the table tops which we redid,” Russo said. “We wanted to make it comfortable, but not too nice. We want families to be comfortable. We want to make it perfect for date night for younger guests too. We brought it up to 2023.”
As sweeping as those changes are, the Italian comfort food Two Meatballs is known for has remained the same.
When Russo first took over, he “didn’t change much of the menu at first.”
“As time went on, we made changes here and there,” he said. “The dough, the sauce, the meatballs were not drastically changed, but we eventually got them to where we thought they should be.”
Same Classic Italian food served
That menu features all the classics you'd expect — chicken, pork and veal Francese, parmigiana and marsala, plus lasagna, calzones, stromboli and seafood dishes. Appetizers include mozzarella squares, fried calamari, bruschetta and eggplant rollatini. Nine specialty salads are offered as well.
The majority of the menu is made in-house, beginning with Mama’s meatballs and ending with the decadent cannoli.
“We don’t try to be gourmet,” Russo said. “It’s not small portions with high prices. We offer high-quality food at fair prices. Almost everyone leaves with leftovers.”
We fell into this category after ordering the clams & mussels fra diavolo appetizer (in a wonderfully spicy tomato sauce), a shrimp salad (with an excellent strawberry vinaigrette) and a serving of Mama's pasta.
We got a couple of meals out of that signature pasta dish consisting of diced sausage and meatballs sauteed with pancetta, ricotta and peas served in a cream sauce over a choice of pasta.
It is one of 15 signature pastas offered.
“The house favorite and Mama’s pasta are very popular,” Russo said. “So is the chicken parm, meatballs, calamari, and our pizzas. We aren’t a pizzeria, but people love our pizza. I’d put it against any others.”
And while “the food stayed the same,” Russo said, “we did up our cocktail menu with more crafty stuff though.”
In the news: 78 new restaurants that opened (or reopened) in 2023 from Cape Coral to Bonita to Captiva
The specialty drinks (from $12-$15) we sampled — the coconut rum-based Tropical Gypsy and the Coco the Dragon with chocolate rum, lime juice, simple syrup, dragon fruit and mint — provided a cool, colorful and creative start to the evening.
But Two Meatballs is more than its flashy new look, consistently good menu and crafty beverages.
After all, it has built up a loyal following for all these years and spurred a second location in downtown Cape Coral.
“During the remodel, so many people popped in to see when we were opening again,” Russo said. “When we did reopen, customers gave their favorite bartender or server hugs. That speaks volumes about our staff here. I am so blessed.”
It’s just another reason why Two Meatballs is my new old favorite.
Two Meatballs in the Kitchen
8880 Salrose Lane, Fort Myers
Price: $$
Call: (239) 489-1111
Hours: 11 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Sunday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday
Web: 2meatballs.com and on Instagram
Sample menu
Zuppa di Pesce $19.99
Strawberry shrimp salad, $16.99
Wild mushroom ravioli, $18.99
Veal francese, $24.99
Linguini & clam sauce, $21.99
White pizza, $16.99 for 12-inch and $19.99 for 16-inch
*Hours and prices subject to change
What the symbols mean
$: Average entree is less than $15
$$: $15-$25
$$$: $25-$35
$$$$: $35-$45
$$$$$: $45 and up
Jean Le Boeuf is the brand under which our restaurant critics have written for more than 40 years. This article came from staff writer Robyn George. Connect: rhgeorge@gannett.com.
This article originally appeared on Fort Myers News-Press: Two Meatball in the Kitchen in Fort Myers gets new life after remodel
