Lutz Huelle RTW Spring 2023
Lutz Huelle was reflecting on what makes — or breaks — a trend when he put together his spring collection. His starting point was a taffeta off-the-shoulder blouse from a few seasons ago that he said he personally hadn’t thought much of when he put it into the collection.
It has since gone viral, and his independent label is having something of a moment. “We’ve never been as healthy as now,” he said at a preview in his Marais showroom. “For a long time maybe I wasn’t in sync with the rest of fashion, maybe I am now, but I really couldn’t explain why,” he shrugged.
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He is also AZ Factory’s next guest designer, with a runway show set for Monday.
His collections, which rework wardrobe staples to give them a new identity, regularly unfurl from a single starting piece. Here, the aforementioned blouse informed several shapes, from voluminous dresses to bright balloon-sleeved coats.
Said sleeve shape, worked in bright silk, was stitched like bubbles onto jersey T-shirts in a variety of forms, including the designer’s very first cropped top. With the wearer’s arms by her sides, it created a trompe l’oeil effect, mimicking an hourglass figure.
For underneath in cooler climes, simple black T-shirts were given sequined high necklines to sit exactly where the blouse left off. Similar splicing was deployed on tailored vests, their lower halves done in vintage denim, or on two-tone Levi’s and shape-shifting jean jackets cut in half, with a wide stripe of another fabric — more sequins, mesh, or a raincoat material — stitched in between to create a rounded back and kimono sleeves.
Launch Gallery: Lutz Huelle RTW Spring 2023
