Louise Trotter’s Carven Debut, Loewe’s Look, and The Row’s Jelly Flats: What Buyers Want for Spring
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PARIS — It was a Paris Fashion Week of emotional highs, goodbyes and decisive debuts. It all played out against the backdrop of the still-strong trend of “quiet luxury,” which was pushed ever so subtly into the background with the growing spectacle of celebrity-driven shows and front rows.
The departures of Gabriella Hearst from Chloé and Sarah Burton from Alexander McQueen were especially notable as they were two of the very few women to head up large fashion houses. “The changing of the guard and farewells to both…were bittersweet moments throughout the week. The exiting leadership from two visionary female designers will be deeply missed,” noted Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus.
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Louise Trotter’s debut collection at Carven was widely praised by buyers, earning mentions on many favorite show and best new talent lists and with items plucked as top trends or new buys. “Trotter promises a future full of elegance and delicacy. It was a very beautiful first start for a clean and super feminine aesthetic,” said Samaritaine Paris’ merchandising director fashion and accessories Victoria Dartigues.
Peter Do’s Paris Fashion Week debut was a standout for many, while Marie Adam-Leenaerdt is being picked by several stores.
Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe had another triumphant season, with his high-waisted pants and Squeeze bag’s return as runway standouts, while Courrèges continued elevation, particularly in accessories, also received a lot of love from buyers.
Other favorites were Demna’s emotionally charged Balenciaga show, cited for bridging the gap from the runway to real people and his inclusive use of different body shapes and sizes; Valentino’s performance piece featuring FKA Twigs and a collection of cutouts to speak about freedom in a female body, and Stella McCartney’s morning market that demonstrated how her collection is infused with her sustainable ethos.
Miu Miu’s fashion week closer was praised for its refreshing energy, which Printemps’ buying director Maud Pupato called “the most desirable look for next summer, the perfect mix between surf and intellectual.”
Buyers predicted that the focus will shift away from the trouser suit to the skirt, and the super-short-short panty trend will dominate going out and party pieces. On the other end, The Row’s collection — so laid back it featured slippers — was nearly universally praised by buyers. It seems nearly every retailer will be buying the brand’s jelly flats.
“I found that Paris Fashion Week clearly represented the dichotomy that’s ruling fashion right now. On one side the quiet luxury narration, with attention to daywear and ‘safe’ collections that will satisfy customers (and reassure shareholders). On the other side, the pure creatives lacked the usual spark, and many designers resorted to celebrities and socialites to create buzz,” said La Rinacente’s head of fashion Federica Montelli.
Other trends were safari touches, as shown at Saint Laurent but demonstrated elsewhere through the week, and the tan and khaki colors that will carry through the season, and all-white dressing with pops of red everywhere.
But Nordstrom’s women’s fashion director Rickie De Sole pointed out perhaps the biggest trend of all: “There wasn’t one overarching mood this Paris season. This is a season to find what you like and mix it up how you want.”
Kate Benson, buying director, Net-a-porter
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, Saint Laurent and The Row.
Top trends: “Extraordinary everyday” was a key trend that emerged for us during Paris. Loewe turned the high-waisted pant and polo top into a fashion-forward desirable piece. Saint Laurent did spring in the best way, showcasing a uniform of utility sets and jumpsuits. And color-wise it was all about primary colors: Red was the color of the season for fall, and for spring, red has been built out with strong pops of cobalt blue, yellow and green.
Investment pieces: Who would have thought we would list jelly sandals as a key investment piece, but we loved The Row’s jelly sandal. Loewe’s Squeeze bag, as seen on the runway again, will continue to be a strong style.
RELATED: Loewe RTW Spring 2024
New talent: We are very excited to be launching Marie Adam-Leenaerdt for spring and are most drawn to her take on tailoring, playing on volumes and silhouettes. We were also so thrilled for Christopher Esber’s debut at Paris Fashion Week — so well deserved.
Impressions of the week: There has been a real beauty and elegance to the collections in Paris, both physically and emotionally. Sarah Burton’s last collection for McQueen was a particularly emotional moment.
Beth Buccini, owner and founder of Kirna Zabete
Favorite collections: Valentino, Loewe, The Row, Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten and Miu Miu.
Best show formats: At Valentino’s beautiful show at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts, Pierpaolo Piccioli had a powerful feminist manifesto paired with equally powerful and beautiful couture-like clothes with exceptional craftsmanship. Also, Paris marked the end of an era for several designers, and I loved seeing Gabriela Hearst dance out of Chloé in style.
Top trends: The trends we first started to see in New York were also completely prevalent in Paris. I’ve never seen so much sheer. Red is still powerful and the key color of the season. Suiting is still important. And finally — finally! — day clothes are really a thing.
Investment piece: Loewe high-waisted pants, Valentino Birkenstock-style sandals, Loewe Squeeze bag, cargo jackets from Saint Laurent, red jellies at The Row, Sacai flared tuxedo trousers and Miu Miu climbing rope sandals.
Budgets up or down: Budgets are up, as we are opening more doors. We’ve already completed 65 percent of our buy for the season.
New talent: We’ve seen less new talent than usual, unfortunately. We always find something fun, but I think this is a challenging time for new designers.
Impressions of the week: It was just thrilling to see desirable day clothes from so many designers. I love this mood of effortlessness and simplicity without being boring. We’re seeing a freshness and lightness that still feels interesting. The looks we saw this week will definitely resonate with our clients. So much of the collections were easy yet still compelling, made with beautiful craftsmanship and fabrications.
Seville Chow, senior vice president of fashion, Lane Crawford
Favorite collection: The Row
RELATED: The Row RTW Spring 2024
Best show format: Rick Owens — expected the unexpected. The pink and yellow smoke with Diana Ross’ “I Still Believe” remix and rose petals scattered through the sky, as we sat at the Palais de Tokyo facing the Eiffel Tower. Column silhouettes, focused on the waist and highlighted with elevated shoulder pads, and parachute overcoats created a dramatic and overpowering entry.
Top trends: Denim and workwear/cargo-inspired details applied to modern tailoring from trenchcoats, jackets and skirts as seen at Dries Van Noten and Saint Laurent. Waistline focus as seen at Rick Owens, Loewe and Saint Laurent. Silk gazar applied on tailoring and parka styles to create a parachute volume effect as seen at Sacai.
Investment piece: Dries Van Noten‘s look four, shrunken cotton drill jacket and shirt paired with long cargo pocket skirt; Loewe super high-waisted denim trouser with needle.
Budgets up or down: Overall we are pleased with what we have seen in the past weekend and we’re investing.
New talent: Quira
Impressions of the week: It’s been a buzzy week of strong collections, great show venue choices and show sets, and seeing most international buyers again. We definitely felt a great sense of positive energy and good vibes.
Jessica Crawley, head of buying at Ounass (Al Tayer Group)
Favorite collections: Valentino, Chloé, Victoria Beckham, Zimmermann, Saint Laurent and Schiaparelli.
Best show format: Saint Laurent and Stella McCartney
Top trends: Spring ’24 builds upon some of the key trends we saw for fall ’23, such as cutouts, sheer fabrics, low-waisted trousers, denim, earthy tones and tailoring. However, there was plenty of newness on the runways as well. Tailoring, one of the biggest trends, had a fresh take with plenty of crisp white blazers, which we saw both on the runways and in the showrooms from brands like Valentino, Magda Butrym, Coperni and Alessandra Rich.
In the world of prints, polka-dots were prominently featured in collections from Stella McCartney, Alessandra Rich and Balmain. But it was the oversize roses that really stood out this season with our favorites being from Balmain and Alexander McQueen. Roses took a 3D effect as well, with rose appliqués featured across collections from Balmain, Chloé, Coperni, Zimmermann and Loewe.
For colors, red was a clear favorite for designers, prominent in collections from Zimmermann, Acne, Valentino, Christopher Esber, Balmain, Schiaparelli and Alexander McQueen. There were also touches of brown, yellow and lots and lots of black.
Investment piece: A white blazer from Valentino or Magda Butrym, I can’t decide.
Budgets up or down: Up
Impressions of the week: PFW encapsulated the concept of “quiet luxury,” a term that has been gaining momentum in the past few months. The collections we saw this week epitomized this notion of understated opulence with the beauty being in the details and the craftmanship. This was exemplified in collections from Chloé, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Alexander McQueen and Saint Laurent. Overall designers embraced simplicity, but collections were nothing short of impactful and sophisticated.
Brigitte Chartrand, vice president of womenswear buying at Ssense
Favorite collection: The Row and Miu Miu
Best show format: The vibe at Maison Margiela was positively electrifying. From the energy of the models to the vibrant music, you would have been hard-pressed to find anyone who didn’t leave with a feeling of absolute excitement after the show. Meanwhile, Balenciaga was pure storytelling and intensity. Set against an orchestral soundtrack with a voice over by Isabelle Huppert reciting the book “La Veste Tailleur,” Demna invited his friends, family and colleagues onto the runway as part of the show. It felt intimate and personal. And of course, who can forget Rick Owens enveloping his audience in rose petals and tinted fog at the Palais de Tokyo. I was very taken away by the “I Still Believe” soundtrack. It was an incredible, immersive Rick experience.
Top trends: In the same way that red was the color of fall 2023, we’re seeing the spring 2024 color palette evolve into sunset hues with designers leaning heavily into reds, oranges and yellows at The Row, Miu Miu and Rick Owens.
Investment pieces: I’m always on the search for the perfect white T-shirt. I absolutely loved the oversized cashmere T-shirt at The Row, and I will have to stop myself from buying every single color of their runway jelly flats.
New talent: We welcomed the first on-schedule collection from Marie Adam-Leenaerdt, which will be launching on Ssense in the next six months.
Impressions of the week: The summer weather in Paris so late in the year was a welcomed surprise this season. It felt like we were living in spring 2024.
Jennifer Cuvillier, fashion director at Le Bon Marché
Favorite collections: Zimmermann, Stella McCartney, Rabanne, Courrèges, Dries Van Noten and Loewe.
Best show format: We had amazing weather, which allowed outside locations. Stella McCartney did her Parisian morning open-air market show with a highlight of representatives from companies pioneering new fabric technologies, as well as vintage Stella McCartney clothes and a booth of old records — a great focus on her sustainable brand’s DNA.
Top trends: Quiet luxury with summer tailoring, twisted shirting, balloon volumes and elevated utilitarian [looks]. Colors such as all-black silhouettes, black and white, soft colors with a sorbet palette and metallics. Prints and embellishment with strass finishing and flower prints. Accessories with a focus on flats, mules and raffia.
Investment piece: A Bermuda suit, elevated denim, a twisted polo shirt, summer knitwear and summer leather pieces.
New talent: We are just launching Guest in Residence, the beautiful cashmere brand designed by Gigi Hadid.
Impressions of the week: It’s a very exciting moment with a lot of creativity from every category — from catwalk to showroom, rtw, accessories, shoes and jewelry, Paris fashion week is definitively a high creative moment.
Laura Darmon, director of buying and business development, ENG
Favorite collection: Rick Owens, Didu, Ann Demeulemeester, Courrèges and Mugler.
Best show format: Mugler, Mugler and Mugler! Once again, Casey’s exceptional creative prowess shines through in the seamless orchestration of this show, from the designs to the captivating stage setup and the impeccable casting choices. Casey’s remarkable talent continues to dazzle and amaze in every facet.
Top trends: Sheer fabric, beige and sand tones, mid-length skirt, elegant silhouettes skillfully playing with proportions.
Investment piece: Exclusive colorway or items in an almost oversaturated market.
Budgets up or down: Stable
New talent: Alainpaul, who unveiled his debut collection, left us utterly spellbound. His inaugural showcase was nothing short of a breathtaking masterpiece, seamlessly blending timeless elegance with a distinct and signature style.
RELATED: Alainpaul RTW Spring 2024
Impressions of the week: Elegance is making a triumphant return, signaling the end of the logo frenzy era. It’s truly refreshing to shift our attention exclusively to the artistry of form, the richness of materials, and the harmony of proportions. Such a delightful departure from the cluttered aesthetics of the past.
Victoria Dartigues, merchandising director fashion and accessories, Samaritaine Paris
Favorite collections: Saint Laurent and Peter Do
Best show format: This season shows were much more focused on minimalistic and simple sets rather than big productions. The set designs were a clear link to the current trends and helped put the collections in forefront.
Top trends: Power dressing remains a very strong constant redline this season, but the strong woman has a much softer look. It is all about empowerment, but with fluidity, transparency and elegance. The common theme for almost all the shows is the ultra-portability and commerciality of the collections. Quiet luxury is still very present, much more feminine with a sexy twist through leather and open back designs. Today’s dressing plays with transparence in the full wardrobe: skirt, top, trousers. In terms of colors, white and a neutral palette dominate, but we see also many pastel shades which are delicately infused into slipdresses. Red is still an “It” color for a strong statement piece.
Investment piece: A slit pencil skirt, Bermuda short, denim blazer, something in polka dots, a pastel slipdress, a sparkling and sheer top, ballerina and flat mules, leather details.
Budgets up or down: We invest in our brands, but we can’t escape the uncertainty of the current context. Therefore, all budgets are measured.
New talent: The first show of Louise Trotter for Carven promises a future full of elegance and delicacy. It was a very beautiful first start for a clean and super feminine aesthetic. Sheer skirt and voluminous top or jacket illustrate this new silhouette that we imagine easily in the streets in next six months. Litkovska has once again demonstrated her talent in classic tailoring through strong silhouettes, charged with references of the difficult situation experienced in Ukraine.
Impression of the week: Overall it’s a very wearable season with creativity and commercial collections. Paris was hitting a strong pool emerging talents among the big houses.
Rickie De Sole, women’s fashion director, Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Valentino, Alexander McQueen, Dries Van Noten, Courrèges and Miu Miu.
Best show format: It was worth arriving early at Stella McCartney’s open-air market at the Marché Saxe-Breteuil. The different stalls showcased innovation in new sustainable fabric technologies along with records and vintage fashion wares. It was a charming, lively and deeply personal show and setting.
Top trends: There wasn’t one overarching mood this Paris season. This is a season to find what you like and mix it up how you want. There was, however, a color story seen repeatedly: black and white, pops of red and khaki. Of course, there were a few defectors like Rei Kawakubo’s electrifying color at Comme des Garcons and Matthew Williams’ dreamy pastels at Givenchy, but the former colorway of black, white, red, khaki was the predominant choice.
Fashion flats everywhere. Looks were constantly being grounded quite literally with low kitten heels, or pragmatic but elegant flat sandals and slip-ons that allow for freedom of movement. Dior, Valentino, The Row, Loewe and more make a strong case for pausing sky-high heels for a moment.
Investment piece: A piece from Sarah Burton’s last Alexander McQueen collection, Chanel crystal ballet flats, Miu Miu thong sandals and The Row jelly sandals.
New talent: We were happy to see South Korean-based Eenk’s Paris runway debut. The collection by Hyemee Lee was a smart mix of texture and casual layering pieces for women on the move. Gia Studios is a fantastic talent from Vietnam.
Impressions of the week: If Milan was about debuts, Paris gave us emotional finales. The highlight of the week was certainly Sarah Burton’s final show at Alexander McQueen. The emotion in the room was palpable and the collection a memorable tour de force of sharp tailoring and modern eveningwear. Closing the chapter for Gabriela Hearst at Chloé also resonated with its celebratory tone. This season was all about balancing spectacle with substance. When there was great showmanship, clothes were the center of the drama.
Elizabeth and Dominick Lepore, owners, Jimmy’s New York and The Hamptons
Favorite collections: Alexander McQueen, Coperni, Saint Laurent and Valentino.
Top trends: White shirts, short anything — the abandonment of pants. Juxtaposition of designer and simpler dressing. The importance of what’s behind you — the back detail of blouses, blazers and the likes of the man’s redingote coat.
Investment piece: Oversize bags
New talent: Going to Paris allows us to find new talent from around the world: Amsterdam, Antwerp, Istanbul, etc.
Impressions of the week: Designers’ feeling of fabric and the relationship to the body.
Linda Fargo, senior vice president of the fashion office and the director of women’s fashion and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: Schiaparelli, Alexander McQueen by Sarah Burton, Givenchy, Loewe, Peter Do, Miu Miu, with other standouts Rick Owens, Junya Watanabe, Comme des Garçons, Marni, Noir, Martin Margiela and Sacai.
Best show format: Stella McCartney treated us to one of the best venues of the week — an open-air morning marketplace offering fantastic sustainable, playful, educational and edible ideas. The Paris sunshine helped. The theatrical and lush red velvet draped space at Balenciaga combined with the highly personal casting of friends, mentors and models made for another memorable Balenciaga experience and marked an important brand turning point.
Top trends: Tailoring continues to be an important starting point, whether in welcome iterations in black, slightly exaggerated and worn over the popular barely there “undie-pant,” cutaway and deconstructed, or worn as shorts suits. Tailoring also supported gender fusion and inter-play, which were in full exploration this week. All-white dressing felt important and a fresh reason to buy. The pretty pale colors trend continued here. Khaki and tan supported more utilitarian ideas. Black and white grounded many collections. Very short lengths ruled. The white shirt interpreted will be a must have. Heartbeat red punctuated shows as it should our wardrobes. The symbol of love — the rose — was the flower of the season.
Investment piece: Recommending anything Schiaparelli, because it’s collectible, rare, beautifully made and conceived, and lives beyond trend.
Impressions of the week: Once again, Paris crystallizes the season and wraps the four city and almost four-week fashion calendar with the originality and innovation we can hope for here. After so many collections anchored in understatement, it was abundantly apparent that the iconoclasts on the Paris show schedule are continuing to push boundaries and prioritize creativity and experimentation. We appreciated the balance it gave to an otherwise safer season.
April Hennig, chief merchandising officer, Moda Operandi
Favorite collections: Valentino, The Row, Givenchy, Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Courrèges and Miu Miu.
Best show format: Stella McCartney’s sustainable market was charming and thought provoking, reminding us all clothing doesn’t start with the runway: we need to think about the entire production cycle. Balenciaga’s dramatic curtain set was a symbol of true showmanship. Chloé’s runway-turned-dance party on the Seine commemorated Gabriela Hearst’s tenure at the brand with a celebratory notion.
Top trends: Saint Laurent’s safari theme also registered at Isabel Marant, Christopher Esber and Peter Do, featuring palettes including olive green, khaki and sand beige. Soft layers of sheer fabrications were seen across collections like The Row, Victoria Beckham, and Givenchy. A color trend we are coining as “à la Ladurée” in the Moda office due to its resemblance to pastel macarons was seen at Stella McCartney, Zimmermann and Valentino. Crisp whites were seen at Giambattista Valli and Chloé, ranging from everyday chic to bridal. Leather continued as a transitional fabrication at Courrèges, Miu Miu and Coperni in key items like jackets, dresses and trousers. Shorts continued from previous cities as a key piece, ranging from longer tailored versions to micro mini shorts at Isabel Marant, Chloé and Rabanne. Comfort remains key with flats and kitten mules, as seen at Valentino and Loewe.
Investment piece: Ready-to-wear investment pieces include cutout embroidery dresses from Valentino, Stella McCartney’s fringe crystal jeans, cotton poplin column dresses from Giambattista Valli, Johanna Ortiz’s black-and-white raffia dresses and Gigi Hadid’s brown embroidery look at Miu Miu. On the accessories side, key pieces include the caged jelly flats at The Row, oversized Balenciaga charm bags, and Christopher Esber’s new rock clutch.
Budgets up or down: There is a lot to love from the Paris collections. We are taking a considered approach to the season.
Impressions of the week: Paris showed a strong and inspiring range of collections that were solidly attuned to what women want to wear right now, with a clear focus on luxury. There were confident finale collections from Sarah Burton at McQueen and Gabriella Hearst at Chloé, while younger designers from Sébastien and Arnaud at Coperni to Nicolas de Felice at Courrèges are continuing to hone their vision. Quiet luxury still played its part but the overall mood was balanced with novelty and unexpected touches across daywear. Collections were more balanced between sharp construction and a dreamy softness. The perfect weather and impressive street style only added to the joy outside the shows.
Tiffany Hsu, chief buying officer, Mytheresa
Favorite collections: Rick Owens, Miu Miu, Loewe, Y/Project and Undercover.
Best show format: Rick Owens had a fantastic venue and the set and the clothes were incredibly cinematic. The Valentino show had FKA Twigs performing which was absolutely mesmerizing.
Top trends: The biggest trends in Paris were transparency, floaty volumes and all white everything. We also saw a lot of jumpsuits and flat shoes.
New talent: New names to watch are Duran Lantink and Rui.
Impressions of the week: Paris was maybe missing a little bit of drama with a few exceptions such as Rick Owens and Undercover.
Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion, Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Schiaparelli, Dries Van Noten and the farewell to the inimitable Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen.
Best show format: The sustainable market at Stella McCartney was charming. It was a thoughtful way to empower artists who are committed to leaving this planet in a better state than how we found it.
Top trends: The sense of lightness was solidified as one of the biggest themes of the season with sheer layers, specifically organza, popping up at Akris, Victoria Beckham, Givenchy and Peter Do. The looks were very leggy with mini and micro shorts at almost every show. In a season that has been primarily neutral, we loved the burst of red, which was particularly striking at Balmain, Schiaparelli and The Row. The expected spring florals got the couture treatment with fantastic 3D and appliqué versions at Marni, Valentino, Loewe and Alexander McQueen.
Investment piece: The Schiaparelli gold trompe l’oeil sneakers or tape measure-adorned pinstripe vest are works of art with a sense of humor that are meant to be treasured.
New talent: We have noted that while the power of Paris Fashion Week comes from the big brands and heritage houses, it is nice to see some of the independent and emerging voices kick off the week, like Vaquera and Zomer.
Impressions of the week: Emotions ran high this season. The changing of the guard and farewells to both creative directors at Chloé and Alexander McQueen were bittersweet moments throughout the week. The exiting leadership from two visionary female designers will be deeply missed. The line between fashion and entertainment continues to blur as high wattage celebrities became both models and our seatmates, and dynamic musical performances replace ordinary soundtracks.
Simon Longland, director of buying, fashion, Harrods
Favorite Collections: Valentino, Saint Laurent and Schiaparelli.
Best show format: In a tale of two contrasts, the best shows for me this season were Daniel Roseberry’s super intimate salon show, which felt entirely special and allowed the audience to see the beautiful detailing and expert craftsmanship and, of course, Rick Owens, who season after season puts on a show that sits apart from other designers, and from start to finish is filled with completely memorable theatrics.
Top trends: We saw a real continuation of the trends we have seen from the other cities this week, which ensures a clear message for our customers next season. Red for sure is “the” color of the season and we saw pops of this in myriad collections, from Valentino to Schiaparelli’s showstopping final look. Designers are tailoring to the season, offering many more layering and coat options than ever before, bringing a more wintry vibe to the runway. Black, sheer fabrications, sharp tailoring and exposed shoulders were seen from start to finish with Mugler, Saint Laurent and The Row being star players in all these trends.
Investment piece: Saint Laurent’s ultra-chic safari all-in-one will already be on many wish lists. Trenchcoats, statement white shirts and sleeveless tailored jackets were top of the agenda and a staple for next season.
Impression of the week: Paris really was a week of opposing views, shows either dominated by black and clothes that felt more suited to winter or light, bright, and full of the optimism at the arrival of spring. Overall, a more cautious and conservative week than Paris normally delivers.
Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear, Selfridges
Favorite collections: Undercover and Rick Owens
RELATED: Undercover RTW Spring 2024
Best show format: The Mugler show was incredibly staged — wind machines and creating a defect on the dressers that were worn by models that were incredible and highly visual. Stella McCartney’s show was staged outside in a typical Parisian market setting. Except that all the market stalls were replaced with artists, friends, as well as sustainable is sourced, food and fashion.
Top trends:The color red was definitely a presence. It might seem obvious, but lightness was a big trend as well. Whether that was with fabrics or colors, the collections are prepared for a warm spring and summer silky shirts and shorts that are good for the beach and the evening. The Alexander McQueen show with Sarah Burton leaving the brand after this season marked a very emotional show that was rich in pieces that are synonymous with the brand.
Impressions of the week: It was an unusually hot week in Paris, the collections are delivering across the board and making Paris the capital of fashion once more. Big brands, independent brands from further afield like Japan, we are present in force in making the creativity stand out in Paris. Getting around was never easy in the city. We found ourselves on the Metro, and on bicycles more often than ever before. Paris delivered as expected.
Federica Montelli, head of fashion, La Rinascente
Favorite collections: Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Saint Laurent, Miu Miu, Acne Studios and Courrèges, special mention for Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen.
Best show formats: Stella McCartney’s sustainable market kicked off the Monday of shows in a fun and instructive way. I also loved Marni’s “love letter to Paris” set at Karl Lagerfeld’s home on Rue de l’Université, where we could enjoy the multidimensional and colorful approach of Francesco Risso’s trip to Paris.
Top trends: Sheer and transparency for both ready-to-wear and accessories, one-shoulder necklines and deep backs. Extra-short skirts as well as minidresses. The timeless white shirt has been reinterpreted here and there by designers. (I loved the one-shoulder one at Dior.) In terms of tailoring, there were many Bermuda [versions], my most loved one was Dries’ in denim. You could find trenchcoats on almost every runway, as a testimony of how important it is to offer a transitional collection in these times of crazy weather forecasts. There was a big statement on black vs. white and soft pastels, while red remains the strongest pop color. While everybody is doing low-waist pants, I appreciated Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe going for a super-high waist.
Investment pieces: Clear answers came from the shoe-business, where ballet shoes and fisherman sandals will undoubtedly be a strong investment. Jewels also showed a strong character, as they stood out on jersey body-con dresses that were clearly more “quiet.”
New talent: Louise Trotter’s debut show for Carven pleasantly surprised me, and it is a brand to watch in its future developments.
Impressions of the week: I found that Paris Fashion Week clearly represented the dichotomy that’s ruling fashion right now. On one side the quiet luxury narration, with attention to daywear and “safe” collections that will satisfy customers (and reassure shareholders). On the other side, the pure creatives lacked the usual spark, and many designers resorted to celebrities and socialites to create buzz. The two important goodbyes announced for this week — namely McQueen and Chloé — left that same “waiting” feeling that pervaded all fashion month.
Alix Morabito, general buying and merchandising director for womenswear, Galeries Lafayette
Favorite collections: Saint Laurent, Loewe, Dries Van Noten, Carven and Miu Miu.
Best show formats: Stella McCartney for her rich and generous circular market, embracing in the most sincere way the roots of her brand. Balenciaga’s approach to his casting, creatives and people from the industry who have a relationship with him and the house, brought a sense of reality to his clothes and to fashion. The voice-over of Isabelle Huppert reading the manual of “making a jacket” was the perfect finishing touch.
Top trends: We see a continuity after the Milan shows in the idea of exploration, travel and adventure expressed through technicality, utility and craftsmanship. There is also a continuity of the previous season with a light and delicate approach of femininity expressed through lingerie and transparent garments. Unexpected athleisure twists to elevated looks in shows like Dries and Miu Miu were refreshing. This ties in well with the preppy schoolgirl approach we are seeing more and more of this season. The ’70s and a hippie vibe were hinted here and there in shows, whether it be in the colors, the high- or low-rise pants, the flare trousers and the overall attitude. In the meantime, and on a larger scale, we feel like quiet luxury is giving more space to other brands to explore creativity, which we deeply appreciated as it brings energy and directional point of view to the fashion month.
New talents: We were glad to see the development of Marie Adam Lenart’s collections, fun, colorful and diverted propositions. Duran Lantink is also a great new talent that pushes creativity further with his bold and conceptual shows.
Impressions of the week: It was a very, very busy and dense Paris Fashion Week. It’s definitely the place to be.
Roopal Patel, SVP, fashion director, Saks
Favorite collection: Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Loewe, The Row, Rick Owens, Givenchy and Sarah Burton’s final collection for Alexander McQueen.
Best show format: Stella McCartney’s outdoor sustainable market with 22 stalls that greeted us as the backdrop for her spring ’24 show was informative and educational on conscious alternatives. Leather made from apple waste, grape based vegan leather alternatives and carbon negative mushroom packaging. The possibilities are endless. Rick Owens was another standout.
Top trends: There has been a twist to everyday reimagined essentials from blazers, shirting, trousers and denim at Loewe and The Row. Head-to-toe khaki as the base for foundation dressing at Dries Van Noten and Saint Laurent. Cargo- and utility-inspired flight suits, cargo skirts and pants. The classic trench as the topper for spring. Light, and airy organza slipdresses and separates in soft pastels. Transparency and sheer continue. Rose motifs and prints brought romance to the collections at McQueen and Balmain. Red was everywhere in Paris, from long sweeping dresses at Valentino, to sculpted confections at Rick Owens. Fringe continues in high def silver metallics and goddess gold.
Investment piece: A Saint Laurent safari jacket inspired piece — from the flight suit, a skinny pencil skirt or a cargo pant. The Row’s red anorak, mesh jelly flat and shopper bag. Loewe’s blazer, pintuck tuxedo shirt and high-waisted jeans. Dries Van Noten’s Military jacket, striped shirt and beaded skirt. Any of the masterpiece looks of Sarah Burton’s final collection for Alexander McQueen. The Chanel flip-flop.
Impressions of the week: The last eight days in Paris have been full on with a jam-packed schedule. Designers all stayed true to the codes and foundations of their houses while tapping into what the customer is looking for now in these changing times. The level of showmanship and big production shows brought the fanfare and grandeur that you only find here in Paris.
Ida Petersson, buying director, Browns
Favorite collection: Dries Van Noten
Best show format: Mugler. Casey delivered on the drama and the casting was a highlight of the month.
Top trends: A continuation of what we saw in the other cities — chic tailored wardrobing, black essentials and white with highlights of red and blue. Sheer fabrications, leather for summer and fringing will be key trends for the season.
Investment piece: Those rhinestone ballerina pumps from Loewe.
Budgets up or down: We are keeping things level to ensure we can concentrate on our existing partners.
New talent: Louise Trotter’s debut at Carven was a fresh and exciting take on the brand’s heritage.
Impressions of the week: It was a fun, fast paced week that once again did not disappoint. Most brands stuck with their signature aesthetics and overall it was a strong visual showing, punctuated by some key brand moments including Sarah Burton’s last show for McQueen.
Maud Pupato, buying director, luxury womenswear, accessories and footwear, Printemps
Favorite collections: Carven, Loewe, Courregès and Miu Miu.
Best show format: Coperni’s beathing and beating walls in a small room was emotionally strong — and so is the collection. Acne offered a beautiful artistic set. Balenciaga’s theater with Isabelle Huppert’s voice was very intense. Courrèges cracking floor was the first to set the tone to raw and organic runways.
Top trends: Transparency is present in every show, mixed with tailoring, in full look, as daywear, and sexy. Tailoring is definitely back with a special mention for Bermudas, high-waisted pants and a very empowered version at Schiaparelli. Micro shorts and panties are replacing any bottoms to go out: sparkling at Vaillant, in leather at Gauchere, and double layered at Victoria Beckham. Butter yellow is a color more and more seen, paired with light blue.
Investment piece: A shirt is a must-have this season: striped, check print, with exaggerated sleeves or as an asymmetric dress. Shoes are the accessory to invest, my three favorites being Courrèges mules, Loewe loafers and Cecilie B. x Asics. For sure a Loewe bag and possibly the matching coat. A Bermuda suit. A transparent skirt from Carven. A polo and surf shorts from Miu Miu.
Budgets up or down: Budgets are growing.
New talent: The very talented Alice Vaillant, even if not new, presented a very directional show. Hodakova presented her first show, everything is upcycled and bags are really interesting.
Impressions of the week: Paris Fashion Week was both fluid and grounded, as were the collections and the vibe. Sets are very raw and organic this season, offering a better attention to the clothes. There was a true redefinition of looks and aesthetic to new approaches of brands and codes.
Arielle Siboni, fashion director, women’s, Bloomingdale’s
Favorite collections: Valentino, Dries van Noten, Gabriela Hearst’s final collection for Chloé. Also loved Awake Mode, Saint Laurent, The Row, Schiaparelli and Rokh.
Best show format: Stella McCartney’s sustainable open-air market and Valentino’s riveting performance by FKA Twigs.
Top trends: Menswear-inspired poplin, exposed shoulder silhouettes, oversized crochet carryalls, 3D florals, utility inspired bodies, sheer organza and beautiful lace. We continued to see a lot of denim dressing and shorts — everything from micros to longline Bermudas.
Investment piece: Pierpaolo Piccioli’s intricate and artful embroidery, Anthony Vaccarello’s sheer tops paired back to cargo pants, Jonathan Anderson’s high-waisted pants.
Impressions of the week: The strongest collections were rooted in the reinvention of everyday clothing, classic staples infused with a sense of femininity. This season fashion says goodbye to two strong female designers, Sarah Burton and Gabriela Hearst, who inherently understand how women want to dress in a way that makes them feel both confident and feminine. Pierpaolo Piccioli’s collection celebrated a woman’s freedom to express herself through clothing or lack thereof. The collection captured the sentiment “that feminism is the freedom of women to be who they are.”
Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Dries Van Noten, The Row, Alexander McQueen and Miu Miu.
Best show format: We are energized and inspired by designers who leverage their runway shows as a for platform social impact, and change. The punchy, digital screens at Dior and FKA Twig’s performance at Valentino was a powerful display of female empowerment. The sustainable market that served as the backdrop for the Stella McCartney show was an innovative platform for showcasing their progressive fabric and product innovations. As a retailer, with sustainability at the core of our strategic values, we hope to see more designers highlighting material transparency in their collections.
Top trends: The soft feminine trend inclusive of pastels, airy and sheer fabrications and a carefree attitude were prevalent from designers like Zimmermann, Dries Van Noten and Roger Vivier. This season, the focus is firmly on skirts. In Paris, we’ve witnessed an array of options, including sheer styles, sleek pencil and straight silhouettes, impeccably tailored pieces, and skirts that elegantly range from midi to maxi lengths. Reinterpretations of men’s inspired tailoring are dominant, with Givenchy showcasing innovative jacket designs, Courrèges reimagining shirting and Loewe, experimenting with unique silhouettes. Here we also note the utilitarian influence which ultimately create the season’s new uniform. This was best seen with a touch of red seen all over the collections.
Investment pieces: Givenchy pencil skirt, Dries Van Noten printed set, The Row jelly flats, vest from Sacai, Valentino denim Bermuda shorts, Miu Miu boat shoes.
Impressions of the week: After a month of fashion shows, we end the tour in Paris and hope to be inspired and enchanted by the collections. With new names on the Paris calendar and new designers that are to be announced, there was an excitement around Paris that we saw reflected in the collections. There will be no shortage of clothes and accessories to buy next spring and we’re energized by the color and print we’ve seen throughout the collections.
Liane Wiggins, head of womenswear, Matches
Favorite collection: Loewe
Best show format: The Valentino show at the École des Beaux-Arts in Paris with the FKA Twigs dance performance was beautiful and there was a strong sentiment around empowering women to dress for themselves.
Top trends: Safari chic — from the incredible looks at Saint Laurent to the more commercial offerings at Fortela. The continuation of strong bag development from Loewe to Valentino and Victoria Beckham. Great transitional trenches everywhere, highlights at The Row. Sheer layers are here to stay, and we saw great ways to style them.
Investment pieces: A trenchcoat from The Row and Dries Van Noten; shirtdresses in shorter lengths from Courrèges; the new Squeeze bag from Loewe and a safari jumpsuit from Saint Laurent, ideally in linen.
New talent: We saw strong development from Marie Adam-Leeneardt, who we are launching at Matches this season. Her strong design aesthetic is reflected through her wearable but highly interesting pieces.
Impressions of the week: The shows were meaningful, full of emotive music and drama — a reaction to the moment we are all living in.
Eric Young, founder and buying director, Le Monde de SHC
Favorite collections: Balenciaga, Mame Kurogouchi, Peter Do, Dries Van Note and All In.
Best show format: Mame Kurogouchi. The show was held at the famous restaurant Ogata in the third arrondissement, which is a unique space in itself. The designers presented the key designs of the season in an exhibition format, and the mix of Japanese craftsmanship and contemporary fashion was impressive. For Balenciaga, Demna finally reverted to the grand narrative fashion show format. Mothers, friends and lovers took to the stage to make this season’s emotional level high. But it’s also a little sad, after all, with such an emotionally charged show, it would not be surprising if he left Balenciaga.
Top trends: Stripes; especially the clear ones. It’s a pretty obvious trend point this season. But I can’t say how the Asian market will react to it, we’ll have to see. Men’s shirts that are made with high thread count fine cotton or wool. Whether it’s an extra-long style that can be worn alone or with a variety of pants, it’s the choice. Oversize silhouettes that aren’t too tough; the presence of a very large piece that can be designed to be laid out whether it’s a top or a skirt or a pantsuit. The new point is not to create an image of a strong woman, but instead to convey some sensitivity and complexity through layers of fabrics.
Investment pieces: Very high-quality everyday casual wear.
Budgets up or down: Given the current economic climate in China, budgets will not be increased but we will adjust the brand mix to surprise our customers.
New talent: All In, the item I want to own immediately is their Ts — super cool and cute. Zomer, a combination of designs that made a difference in the first season, it comes with the combination of great tailoring skills and the right price point.
Impressions of the week: The big question is how to present different designs in the current economic climate, LMDS has a high-quality fashion clientele, and it is more important than ever to find the most exclusive collections with the best craftsmanship.
Will Zhang, founder and buying director, SND
Favorite collection: Acne Studio
RELATED: Acne Studios RTW Spring 2024
Best show format: Mugler, the blowers at the show space blew the models’ dresses as much as Casey Cadwallader blew our minds. With Fan Bingbing walking in the show, I won’t be surprised to see a fast rise in popularity in China.
Top trends: Minimalistic way of dressing, quiet luxury seems to be having staying power, intricate washed denim pieces.
Investment Piece: Simple, wearable pieces.
Budgets up or down: Budgets down
New talent: Alainpaul
Impressions of the week: A lot more Chinese buyers and Chinese brands are here at Paris Fashion Week.
— With contributions from Samantha Conti, Lily Templeton, Jennifer Weil, Alex Wynne and Tianwei Zhang.
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