A Parisian in New York City is a narrative that Longchamp creative director Sophie Delafontaine knows well, having brought the brand Stateside the past few seasons. But the girl she imagined is not so much her, but 40 cinematic characters, all “versions of a Parisian women” in the Big Apple.
Alongside the theme was a dip into the Seventies, an era Delafontaine is fond of, referencing it the past few seasons. Here she took it a step forward with rich suedes like a clay-colored, jumper-style long tank over a chunky embroidered knit turtleneck and oxblood skirt. Leatherwork, deeply embedded in the brand, was used throughout.
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Outerwear was particularly strong, like bomber jackets with shearling details that topped off several looks, articulating the brand’s wearable, not too precious ethos.
Accessories — obviously bags are the driver of the house — played on the super big and super small trend we’ve seen the past few seasons, with a grand Pliage and a super tiny version to match. She also mined the archive, reimagining a style her father created and that she carried at age 12; she deemed it the brand’s first “It” bag. Dubbed Longchamp 1980, it’s a simple cross-body with minimal hardware and a rounded rectangular shape that opened the show on the collection’s first look. It might be a fit for Kendall Jenner, a face of the brand, who sat in the front row, or Carolyn Murphy or Kaia Gerber, who walked the show.
After a few seasons flushing out her ideas, it felt like Delafontaine has found her rhythm with a collection that married historic house codes with decisive ideas for today’s women.
Launch Gallery: Longchamp RTW Fall 2020