Long Noodles Are Great, But Have You Tried Fideos?

Ramen. Soba. Rice. Spaghetti. Egg. Vermicelli. There’s room in our hearts for all of the types of noodles in the world—and fideos are no exception.

Simply put, fideos means “noodles” in Spanish. But the word actually refers to a particular kind of noodle—short and golden, with vermicelli-like thinness—as well as to specific dishes. In parts of Mexico and the U.S., fideos are typically prepared in sopa de fideo, a brothy noodle soup, whereas in Spain—and Catalonia, in particular—fideos are featured in a drier, jammier dish called fideuà. In this application, fideos are not boiled at all, but rather simmered in a rich, flavorful broth for a finished product that’s similar to paella in that it’s smoky, tomato-y, and umami-packed, with various protein and vegetable add-ins. .

When assistant food editor Sohla El-Waylly set out to develop a recipe that would capture off-the-charts flavors and textures of Catalonian fideos in a weeknight-friendly package, she first tackled the noodles: Because not all grocery stores sell designated fideos, Sohla calls for scrunching thin spaghetti into ½-inch to 1-inch pieces, which makes for a pretty good approximation. (Regular spaghetti will also work in her recipe, but stay away from angel hair—it’s so thin that it will cook too quickly.)

Then, Sohla thought about how she was going to get big flavor while bypassing the typical saffron, squid ink, or seafood. The answer? Building in stages. She first renders the fat from chicken thighs, then uses what’s left in the pan to toast the makeshift fideos. Not only does this impart a nutty flavor to the noodles, but it also ensures that they’ll withstand the relatively long cook time.

Once the noodles are a deep golden-brown, Sohla makes a soffritto—a slow-cooked mixture of onion, garlic, and tomato paste—and bolsters it with anchovies and lemon juice. The anchovies provide the umami jolt and the lemon brings brightness. All together, this flavor-packed base forms the foundation of the fideos, replacing seafood, chicken, or vegetable stock.

After the chicken thighs and noodles go back in the pan, Sohla sends the skillet into the oven, for a gentle, even cook and a crunchy, spiky top. When you serve the fideos, don’t be surprised if your guests (slash roommates) fight over those crispy, browned noodles. But sit back and let them have at it: You’ll know that underneath lies the jammy, tomato-y, super savory, tender noodles that just might be the best part.

Get the recipe:

Fideos With Chicken Thighs and Kale

Sohla El-Waylly

Originally Appeared on Bon Appétit