Is this London's best vegan pop-up?

I remember when I first found out champagne wasn’t necessarily vegan-friendly: “But it’s just grapes!” I had spluttered. I later learned that neither are most beers and wines, and that Walkers tomato ketchup-flavoured crisps aren’t vegan – but that their packets of prawn cocktail are.

I’ve eaten spongy, ‘cream’-filled cakes in cafés, three-tiered veggie burgers dripping with gooey sauces at markets, dipped crispy sweet-potato fries into very convincing ‘mayonnaise’ in restaurants, and they were all completely plant-based. Veganism commands respect in the modern culinary arena – whatever your diet is.

When I heard that the W London - Leicester Square had launched a vegan menu by British chef Ravinder Bhogal as part of their seasonal dining series (where guest chefs take over the kitchens for a few months), I decided to try it out with a friend.

The series came about after an extensive revamp of the hotel’s public areas in which the old bar and club became The Perception, a smart open-plan corner of the hotel enlivened with curvy seating, hanging plants and fun lights, and restaurant seating area to the side, separated with an interesting feature wall of plates.

It’s young, fun and quirky, which pretty much sums the hotel up – the whole place feels a bit like a club, from the doormen downstairs who look (and act) like bouncers, to the loud house music and live DJs on the floor.

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We started with a selection of vegan cocktails at the bar: Spice Boy, a citrussy, orange-coloured drink with a healthy dose of tequila, a good kick of spice from the green chilli and salsa parrilla homemade syrup, topped off with a squeeze of lime and a sprinkling of tamarind.

I went for Pearls of Wisdom which was a bit like a mango smoothie but with a pinch of cayenne that heats up unexpectedly at the back of the throat. On top of the mix was a basil leaf (that slightly infuses the drink) cupping a clutch of mango caviar (tiny balls of mango that appear to look like fish eggs). If this is a ‘vegan twist’, it’s a bit of a sick joke; I can’t say I’ve ever had a cocktail garnished with actual caviar, but it was adventurous nonetheless.

Our boothed table overlooked buzzing Wardour Street. I surveyed the menu, which Ravinder had created in homage to her niece, who became a vegan two years ago. She wanted to design dishes that were fun and foodie, whilst being nourishing and completely herbivorous, and a glance at the menu confirmed a well-rounded mix of creative cooking and playful concepts.

To start, the Cauliflower Popcorn (often quite a hard one to pull off) was the standout; hunks of florettes encased in a good crunch of light, crispy Thai-basil batter and served with a deliciously sweet black vinegar and chilli dipping sauce, and the Beetroot and Walnut Kibbeh (like a nutty patty) had a good earthiness which went well with the creamy, slightly sour tahini.

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A main of tempura inari was probably my favourite dish. The rectangles of sticky rice fried in a creamy batter went really well with the moong dhal, tomatoes and turmeric carrot kraut. As my friend admitted, it was everything you want from something fried.

The Sweet Potato Gnocchi on the other hand promised more than it delivered – at first the chewiness was delightful but after a while it became dry and the Asian mushrooms turned slightly slimy. But what I did like about this dish was the culture of textures – those two soft components mixed with crispy kale and sweet potato crisps were a highlight.

For dessert? Go for the saffron, mango and passionfruit ‘cheesecake’, it looks as good as it tastes. But perhaps ask for a side of coconut cream to drizzle over it. Two vegan wines were Chardonnay or Cabernet Sauvignon, both from Chile. The verdict? You don’t have to be a vegan to enjoy what’s put in front of you. Ravinder’s menu looked exciting, tasted good, and felt accessible.

We ended the night with more cocktails at The Perception. Opt for a Puss in Boots if you like fruity (black-coloured) rum-based drinks with activated charcoal, that come in boot-shaped glasses with a topping of that mango caviar. Also try the gin-based, Ribena-coloured Purple Rain that tastes a bit like palma violets with fresh lychees and elderflower, served in a martini glass. Sit back and enjoy the atmosphere as it slowly changes from up-beat bar to DJ-party as the night goes on. This is the W, after all.

• Read the full review: W London - Leicester Square

Ravinder Bhogal's menu is available to book until the end of June (wlondon.co.uk; 0207 758 1000). Double rooms from £239 year-round.