After lockdown, I will finally visit Europe's most spectacular city
‘All roads lead to Rome,” they say. Not true. I’ve travelled down many of Europe’s roads over the years, from Kirkenes to Cadiz, Tallinn to Trieste, and have never ended up in Europe’s titan.
My avoidance of Rome started in 2008, when I went interrailing after my A-levels. When planning the trip I remember printing out a map of Europe with my friends. Our marker pen started in Berlin and moved down to Prague, Munich, Budapest, then on to Vienna, Venice and up to Amsterdam via Interlaken. Rome, a bit too far south, didn’t get a look in.
As a result of this trip, I became something of a European city break obsessive – 48, on my last count. People are having all kinds of holiday fantasies during lockdown, and mine revolve around cities: wandering the gold-lit streets of Marseille on a hot evening, discovering a grungy bar in Ljubljana, sitting by Ghent’s canals with a dripping waffle.
No wonder I love cities so much. I was actually conceived in Rome. Well, kind of. I was named after Gregory Peck, after my mum fell in love with him for his performance in Roman Holiday. But I’ve never run around its marbled streets, with or without a disguised princess by my side.
I’ve been quizzed on Rome once or twice before. How can I call myself a travel writer, having never seen the light dapple through the columns of the Colosseum, nor strained my neck to look at the Sistine Chapel’s ceiling, nor climbed to the top of the Palatine Hill?
The answer is the same reason that I haven’t watched The Sopranos or Citizen Kane yet. It is why I leave a gulp’s worth of beer at the end of my pint and save the most delicious mouthful of a meal for my final bite. I’m well aware of Rome’s riches – I’m just saving it till last.
Five insider tips, according to our experts
Our Italy experts Lee Marshall and Rebecca Winke share their favourite corners of the city.
Negotiate backstreets with a private guide
Taking a tour with a private guide can bring ruins to life or help you negotiate intriguing backstreets, nipping into courtyards and pretty churches you wouldn’t know were there. Even a visit to the crowded Vatican Museums can become a breeze. Agnes Crawford, who is British, has been leading tours in Rome since 2001 (understandingrome.com).
A timeless trattoria
La Campana is a smart Sunday-best kind of place your Roman grandmother might take you, with timeless trattoria decor and reliable, old-fashioned service. It serves refined versions of traditional dishes such as coda alla vaccinara (braised oxtail) and carciofi alla giudia (crispy, deep-fried artichokes). Its tiramisu is legendary (ristorantelacampana.com).
Check out the street art
Rome’s street art scene is taking off, with Alice Pasquini garnering international attention and the opening of MURo, an outdoor mural art museum. Scooteroma has the insider knowledge and zippy wheels to show you the most impressive works (scooteroma.com).
The best wine bar in Rome
Il Goccetto is one of the best wine bars in central Rome – the only one to score maximum points on wine expertise, food (a range of gourmet cold deli platters) and buzzy neighbourhood vibe. More than 50 bottles of wine are on the go at any one time (0039 06 686 4268; 14 Via dei Banchi Vecchi).
The underground passageways of the Colosseum
Rome’s most famous classical ruin, the Colosseum/Forum/Palatine complex, is unmissable – especially now that they’ve extended the visitor route to include the underfloor passageways through which gladiators and wild beasts made their entrances. You pay for entry to all three on the same day (coopculture.it/en/colosseo-e-shop.cfm).
