Litkovska RTW Spring 2023
It felt like a moment of grace in Paris as the sun peeked between stormy clouds long enough for Ukrainian designer Lilia Litkovska to show her spring collection at a carrousel in the Tuileries gardens.
The designer, who got married over the summer and dropped the final “ya” syllable of her name to further express her Ukrainian identity, wanted a grander gesture than simply showing her latest designs in real life.
More from WWD
Having titled her spring collection “Vesnianka,” after a traditional song that would be sung whenever the blessing of higher powers was needed, the first of her models came out to a quintet of singers in traditional Ukrainian attire singing such a blessing. Litkovska said she hoped her take on this ceremony would help put her desire for peace out into the universe and manifest it.
Handsome trousers with a asymmetric front pleat, boho tops with long fringes trimming the back of the arm, or workwear inspired jackets dropped well above the waist felt like the kind of fare that would appeal to a trend-led set as much as it would to those in the market for some dependable wardrobe workhorses.
Though Litkovska’s pieces are wholly contemporary, a closer look turned up artisanal technique craft details, usually reserved for her more upscale “Artisanal” line. Case in point — the nubbly fabric used on a button-less shawl collar coat was developed in house, weaving previous season’s production leftovers using a traditional carpet weave.
Elsewhere, the words of a 1930s poem by a Ukrainian political dissident were embroidered tone-on-tone around the neckline.
Her accessories mined the same vein. Flap bags, cut from the same material, had a built-in plastic cover. Under normal circumstances, it would be the kind of witty detail that have made Litkovska’s designs popular. Under current ones, her explanation that “in this bag, they bring their traditions and their roots” had particular poignancy, as did the crochet elements handcrafted by her mother.
Once all the models had taken their places on the carrousel, a tearful Litkovskaya emerged, holding a Ukrainian flag. The applause of guests and onlookers soon turned into a chorus of “Glory to Ukraine, glory to the heroes,” the country’s national salute and a symbol of its resistance.
Launch Gallery: Litkovska RTW Spring 2023
