Lima’s Central Is the Best Restaurant in the World, According to the World’s 50 Best Organization
Rankings have become quite contentious, yet organizations continue to roll out their lists of the crème de la crème. And if you ask the World’s 50 Best Restaurants, the top spot in the entire world is Lima’s Central.
On Tuesday night, at a ceremony in Valencia, Spain, the group revealed its ranking of the top 50 restaurants across the globe, after rolling out the runners-up list of 51-100 earlier this month. (In April, it also named Elena Reygadas of Rosetta in Mexico City the best female chef in the world.) Following Central, the top five were rounded out by a trio of Spanish restaurants—Barcelona’s Disfrutar, Madrid’s Diverxo, and Atxondo’s Asador Etxebarri—and Copenhagen’s Alchemist (which moved up from No. 18 last year).
More from Robb Report
This $250 Million Bel-Air Estate Could Become America's Most Expensive Home for a Third Time
What the White House Will Serve for Its State Dinner With Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi
“This is not about being No. 1; this is not about competition; this is not about being the best,” said Virgilio Martínez of Central. “This is about what we do every single day—to love what we do, to keep achieving our beautiful goals, and just looking for the truth.”
Central, which opened in 2008, first appeared in the rankings in 2013, landing a spot at 50. It ascended quickly, spending much of the last decade in the top six before becoming the first South American restaurant to become No 1. The married couple behind the establishment, Léon and Martínez, have used their restaurant as a showcase of indigenous Peruvian ingredients and cooking, becoming global evangelists for their home country’s cuisine. Léon has moved on as head chef of Central to open her first solo venture Kjolle, which joined Central in the top 50 this year.
Outside of those highly rated restaurants, a few others spots made notable appearances on the list. New York City’s Atomix was the highest climber of any restaurant, hopping up to No. 8 from No. 33 last year. (The United States saw just two spots crack the top 50, with Le Bernardin coming in at No. 44.) The highest new entry was Bruno Verjus’s Table in Paris, which debuted at an impressive No. 10. On the other end of the spectrum, Le Calandre in Rubano fell a whopping 31 spots from last year, from No. 10 to No. 41. (Previous No. 1 winners are ineligible after they achieve that honor, so last year’s top spot, Copenhagen’s Geranium, is now absent.)
While these teams certainly see making the list as an honor, in certain circles it’s claimed that rankings such as this one have lost their influence. In 2021, Magnus Nilsson told Robb Report that he had stopped voting for the 50 Best award. And last year, New York magazine’s food editor wrote that “it’s become something of an annual tradition to point out that the list is very silly … Among the reasons: Voters just pick their friends, restaurants in international travel destinations inevitably rank higher as judges can more easily visit them, [and] businesses run by men are disproportionately represented.”
However, William Drew, the content director for 50 Best, refutes these charges. He told Robb Report that “the influence—and indeed the positive influence—of 50 Best is bigger than ever,” citing the group’s increased social-media following, more media coverage of its rankings, and attendance at this year’s ceremony from all 50 honorees, among other factors.
“The vast majority of the gastronomic world, especially the higher end of the gastronomic world … is super positive about what we do, or at least neutral to positive,” Drew said. “Then there’s a small minority that are negative for their various reasons. Of course, they’re entitled to their opinion.”
While it’s too soon to gauge the response to this year’s ranking, we can be pretty certain that these restaurants and chefs are having a well-earned—and well-fed—celebration in Valencia this evening.
Check out the full list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants below.
Central, Lima
Disfrutar, Barcelona
Diverxo, Madrid
Asador Etxebarri, Atxondo
Alchemist, Copenhagen
Maido, Lima
Lido 84, Gardone Riviera
Atomix, New York City
Quintonil, Mexico City
Table by Bruno Verjus, Paris
Trèsind Studio, Dubai
A Casa do Porco, Sāo Paulo
Pujol, Mexico City
Odette, Singapore
Le Du, Bangkok
Reale, Castel di Sangro
Gaggan Anand, Bangkok
Steirereck, Vienna
Don Julio, Buenos Aires
Quique Dacosta, Denia
Den, Tokyo
Elkano, Getaria
Kol, London
Septime, Paris
Belcanto, Lisbon
Schloss Schauenstein, Fürstenau
Florilège, Tokyo
Kjolle, Lima
Boragó, Santiago
Frantzén, Stockholm
Mugaritz, San Sebastien
Hiša Franko, Kobarid
El Chato, Bogotá
Uliassi, Senigallia
Ikoyi, London
Plénitude, Paris
Sézanne, Tokyo
The Clove Club, London
The Jane, Antwerp
Restaurant Tim Raue, Berlin
Le Calandre, Rubano
Piazza Duomo, Alba
Leo, Bogotá
Le Bernardin, New York City
Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Berlin
Orfali Bros Bistro, Dubai
Mayta, Lima
La Grenouillère, La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil
Rosetta, Mexico City
The Chairman, Hong Kong
Culinary Masters 2023
Don’t miss the food event of the year. Register for Robb Report’s Culinary Masters now. Or, for more information on Robb Report experiences, visit RR1.
Best of Robb Report
Why a Heritage Turkey Is the Best Thanksgiving Bird—and How to Get One
The 10 Best Wines to Pair With Steak, From Cabernet to Malbec
Sign up for Robb Report's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.
