How to Lighten Dark Underarms

The sneaky causes — and how to fix them.

Despite what filters and Photoshop might have you believe, not everyone has even-toned underarms. Underarm darkness is completely normal and common thanks to “reasons that range from genetics to fluctuating hormones to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation due to waxing, ingrown hairs, and allergic reactions to detergents or body products,” says Robyn Gmyrek, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.

Sometimes, it’s the simple act of sweating to blame. “Excess sweating predisposes the armpit area to get sensitive to its own sweat. We call this irritant contact dermatitis,” says Kseniya Kobets, MD, a board-certified dermatologist and director of cosmetic dermatology at Montefiore Einstein Advanced Care.

It’s a personal preference should you decide to treat underarm darkness or let them be. Just like hyperpigmentation on the rest of your body, it isn’t generally harmful. It’s even possible that “if it’s a recent issue and not that intense, the hyperpigmentation might resolve on its own,” says Dr. Kobets. It might be preferable to wait it out since “underarm skin is delicate and thinner compared to the rest of your body—making it more permeable to topical products,” says. Dr. Gmyrek.

Related: Want to Permanently Get Rid of Underarm Odor, Sweat, and Hair in Just One Day?

But, if you’re in the camp of wanting to speed up the process of lightening your underarms, it’s important to work with your dermatologist to treat the underlying cause to “rule out any medical conditions like pregnancy, eczema, psoriasis, or diabetes,” says Dr. Gmyrek. Meanwhile, consider how your everyday routine could sneakily affect underarm hyperpigmentation.

Consider How You Shave

If you opt for a hairless look when it comes to your underarms, “physical rubbing and friction make the skin react by causing irritation and redness that can turn to brown discoloration over time,” says Dr. Kobets.

Don’t risk shaving dry or using water alone, as it can create friction: “Remember to use shaving cream to help the razor glide smoothly without damaging the skin,” she says. Getting an in-office laser treatment or waxing might help extend the time between hair removal sessions.

Related: Why You Get Those Armpit Bumps After Shaving

Introduce Exfoliation

When it comes to exfoliating your underarms, there’s good news and bad news: “Exfoliants can be beneficial, but they will be best for superficial hyperpigmentation — and will not completely remove deeply rooted hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Gmyrek.

If your hyperpigmentation is indeed superficial, a chemical exfoliator is your best bet. “A big reason there is darkening of the skin is because of physical rubbing and inflammation, resulting in irritation and then darkness,” says Dr. Kobets.

Can you simply grab the exfoliator you use on your face to use on your pits? “Maybe if the exfoliator is very gentle. Look for ones designed for sensitive skin and decrease the frequency of use to once a week to see how your underarms react,” says Dr. Gmyrek. But since there aren’t any regulations around what qualifies a product as being good for sensitive skin, patch testing is important. As with any new product, “try a small test patch for at least three to five days first to see if any irritation develops. If you get an allergic reaction—you will likely get more post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” says Dr. Gmyrek.

To be safe, try a product specifically designed and tested for your underarm area, like Megababe Happy Pits Detoxifying Underarm Mask, which features glycolic acid. For quicker results, “you can have your dermatologist do light chemical peels in the office. Still, depending on the severity of the darkening, it will take several months to see improvement, and it needs to be combined with topical prescription medications,” says Dr. Kobets.

Here’s a quick 101 on figuring out which acid exfoliator might work best for you:

Glycolic acid

“Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) that helps exfoliate the skin by loosening dead skin cells and promoting cell turnover. It can be effective for hyperpigmentation but may be too harsh for some individuals with sensitive skin,” says Dr. Gmyrek.

Related: Should You Really Be Using Glycolic Acid for Armpits? Experts Explain

Salicylic acid

“Salicylic acid is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that can penetrate the pores and help to exfoliate the dead cells on the skin's surface, which may help remove superficial hyperpigmentation,” she says.

Lactic acid

“Lactic acid, another AHA, can help exfoliate the skin gently and improve skin texture. It is generally milder compared to glycolic acid, making it a good option for the underarm area, which tends to be sensitive,” she says.

Try Topicals — With Caution

Since your armpit skin folds into itself, “it leads to increased moisture and warmth in the area, which can also enhance the absorption of topical medications,” says Dr. Gmyrek. So, it’s important to be mindful of the products and ingredients you use on the area. Patience is the name of the game: Start slowly and use a very small amount. “When applying products to the area, you want to make sure all of the prior deodorant product is removed, your soap is fully cleaned off, and the area is completely dry,” adds Dr. Kobets.

“Overall, the enzyme tyrosinase is the main target when considering treatments that regulate skin tone and hyperpigmentation. This enzyme is very important in melanin or pigment formation, so blocking tyrosinase prevents melanin formation and decreases hyperpigmentation. I love azelaic acid because it is gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types. It is available up to 15% over the counter and 20% by prescription. Other ingredients that block tyrosinase are kojic acid, resveratrol, and tranexamic acid,” says Dr. Gmyrek.

You can also focus on ingredients famous for their brightening properties: “While retinol and vitamin C are great lightening agents, they also come with quite a bit of irritation and need to be introduced slowly, especially since skin folds tend to be more sensitive,” says Dr. Kobets. “Niacinamide decreases the transfer of pigment to the skin cells, helps strengthen your skin barrier, and is anti-inflammatory,” says Dr. Gmyrek.

Experiment With Deodorant

The world of deodorants and antiperspirants can be very tricky when you’re dealing with underarm darkness. For many people, fragrances in deodorant can irritate, leading to hyperpigmentation. “Be careful of those labeled ‘natural’ — fragrances from essential oils and lab-derived fragrances can both cause negative reactions on your skin,” says Dr. Gmyrek. Sometimes, aluminum could be the culprit to your underarm hyperpigmentation. “Native Unscented Regular Deodorant contains sodium bicarbonate, also known as baking soda, and can be less irritating than aluminum,” says Dr. Kobets.

The caveat is that low levels of aluminum are great for eliminating odor but aren’t as helpful in combating sweat — also a big culprit of irritation. Dove Beauty Even Tone Rejuvenating Blossom 48-Hour Antiperspirant and Deodorant Stick features brightening niacinamide that tackles uneven skin tone while preventing sweat and odor but includes fragrance.

The moral of the story is that some trial and error with deodorants might be necessary. Remember to use a deodorant for at least two to four weeks before switching to a new one as your armpits adjust to different ingredients.

Related: Deodorant vs Antiperspirant: What's the Difference?

Remember Your SPF

Kudos if you’re diligent about your SPF, but many of us don’t apply it to less obvious areas of our bodies. Since your underarm skin is so delicate and more sensitive to sun damage when exposed to UV rays, it’s essential to protect your pits with sunscreen if you plan to be outdoors.

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