It was a series of firsts for Leonard — designer Georg Lux’s debut runway show for the label, which he joined in January 2021, and the label’s inaugural show under its new Japanese ownership, after the Tribouillard family sold it to longtime partner Sankyo Seiko in July.
The collection’s theme also spoke of departures — Lux chose Mustique, where the jet-set head for a little R&R, as his inspiration. The collection, however, stayed largely on home territory, full of the vivid prints the label is best known for, including a bright orange pattern featuring giant exotic blooms. Silhouettes — and the Donna Summer soundtrack — veered ‘60s, with A-line minidresses, body-con jumpsuits with cutout panels and flouncing kaftans in prints recalling the waves of a Caribbean lagoon.
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Fishing nets on the beach were the inspiration for the first look, an orange macramé dress adorned with golden tassels. Worked in a quilted jacquard with splotches of color, his boxy cropped skirt suits were a cute option, as were the shorts and matching jacket in needle-scraped denim — a novelty for the heritage label — helping its messaging veer slightly younger this season.
Launch Gallery: Leonard RTW Spring 2023