The last places in Britain to see red squirrels
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When Beatrix Potter published her second book, The Tale of Squirrel Nutkin, in 1903, she couldn’t have foreseen the future awaiting her beloved red squirrels.
But less than 30 years previously, North American grey squirrels had been introduced as novelties into the grounds of certain English stately homes. The bushy-tailed reds that inspired Potter’s storytelling quickly went on the retreat.
They have since been all but lost from England and Wales. Things are less dire in Scotland and Ireland; even in these strongholds, invasive greys are on the march. Our populations of native reds are clinging on by their claws.
The crash in their fortunes is down to two factors. According to The Wildlife Trusts, larger greys out-compete reds for resources and also carry squirrelpox: a deadly virus to which reds have no immunity. Consequently, on encountering greys, red squirrel populations are displaced and soon collapse.
In southern England, they survive only on the Isle of Wight and Poole Harbour’s Brownsea Island, while almost all of those in Wales are restricted to Anglesey. Scotland holds the vast majority (Loch Lomond and the Trossachs is particularly good for sightings); but as grey squirrels encroach ever further into the reds’ remaining territory, our native animals’ fortunes seem unpromising.
But the eventual loss of red squirrels from Britain is not certain. In regions where they still live, a dedicated few conservationists are waging war on the greys. One such is Jackie Foott of British Red Squirrel, which coordinates grey squirrel management in Beatrix Potter’s home county of Cumbria.
“Red squirrels always bring a smile to people’s faces,” she says, “but the only reason we still have them in northern England is thanks to decades of removing greys from the environment. The two species absolutely cannot coexist.”
It’s a similar story in Northumberland, where Paul Hewitt manages the National Trust’s Wallington Estate. “We’re very much on the front line in the battle to save red squirrels,” he reveals. “Twenty-odd years ago, we only had reds hereabouts, but they rapidly declined when greys arrived in 2006. We’re doing our best to control the greys’ spread while research continues into long-term solutions, but right now eradication is the only tool we have.”
It’s a never-ending task. In Anglesey, years of red squirrel conservation have recently been compromised by greys crossing the Menai Bridge and reestablishing themselves on the island. And time is running out elsewhere.
From several million in Victorian times, as few as 120,000 reds are thought to remain; and while there are glimmers of good news from the likes of the Yorkshire Dales, where reds are increasing, no population is safe while greys continue to expand their range.
The resurgence of goshawks and pine martens across Britain is definitely helping, as greys fall prey more easily to these native squirrel predators.
But in reality, reds won’t survive without human intervention. “Eradication is controversial,” admits Paul Hewitt.
“We don’t like doing it. But if we want to save Britain’s native red squirrels, there is no other choice.”
Five places to see red squirrels in Britain
1. Northern delights
The Lake District still has a healthy red squirrel population. Ullswater, an hour’s drive from where Beatrix Potter penned her tales, is particularly reliable.
Spot real-life Squirrel Nutkins from the windows of Hawkhow Cottage, one of two rental properties on a lakeside estate (from £400 per night, sleeps eight; coolstays.com).
Little Nut, a former quarryman’s cottage near Lake Windermere, also has squirrels in the garden (weekend stays from £1,444, sleeps four; littlenutcottage.co.uk). Or head to Northumberland’s Kielder Forest, where half of England’s reds reside. Kielder Waterside has week-long stays from £549 (sleeps four, hoseasons.co.uk).
2. The Essex outpost
Inspired by the island bastions of Anglesey, Brownsea and elsewhere, residents of Essex’s Mersea Island took it upon themselves to reintroduce red squirrels to their east coast outpost in 2012.
From a seed population of 27 individuals, it’s estimated that there are now up to 100.
Spot them (Firs Chase Garden is your best bet) when staying at The White Hart Inn, a contemporary pub with rooms (B&B doubles from £175 per night, whitehartinnmersea.co.uk). Connected to the mainland by a causeway, Mersea only becomes a true island when cut off by the highest of tides.
3. On the Wight track
Back in 2003, several disused Isle of Wight railway lines were transformed into recreational routes. Among them is the Red Squirrel Trail, which runs for 32 miles from East Cowes (near the ferry terminal) to Sandown and Shanklin. Along the way, pedal through farmland, seaside scenery and woodlands where red squirrels dwell (Alverstone Mead Nature Reserve is a hotspot).
Stray a mile off the Trail to find Luccombe Hall Hotel (doubles from £118 per night, luccombehall.co.uk). Take your bike on the ferry for free; foot passenger fares from £20 return (wightlink.co.uk).
4. Highland fling
Scotland and its Highlands are the red squirrels’ UK stronghold. There are plenty on the Monzie Estate, near Crieff in Perthshire, where they can be seen from all guest accommodations. Just-renovated Gardener’s Cottage, surrounded by woodland, is the top pick (from £175 per night; two-night minimum stay, monzieestate.com).
Or try The Dell, on the edge of Abernethy Forest in wildlife-rich Cairngorms National Park (cottages from £160 per night, thedellofabernethy.co.uk).
Keen photographer? Hit the Cairngorms on a week-long winter photography tour on which squirrels (plus stags and mountain hares) are a primary focus (from £2,295pp, wildlifeworldwide.com).
5. Road to the isles
Protected by the sea, red squirrels still thrive on the Isle of Arran. Sightings are best in woodlands such as Glenashdale Forest, but they’re just as likely in the gardens of hotels and B&Bs. Stay in several on a seven-night, self-guided coastal walking holiday (from £855pp, macsadventure.com). Or get similarly active in Aberdeenshire, where the red squirrel population is slowly increasing.
A week-long, guided itinerary here takes in the Balmoral Estate’s Pyramid Trail as well as Crathes Castle, Gardens & Estate, where squirrels scamper (from £1,389pp; departures in July, September and October, rambleworldwide.co.uk).
Where to spot red squirrels elsewhere in Europe
We may thrill at red squirrels in Britain, but on the continent they’re an everyday sight. From central Copenhagen to the hills surrounding Rome, you might bump into one of the tufty-eared treats on almost any city break.
Berlin is particularly good thanks to its wealth of urban parks (stay at So Berlin das Stue, in the heart of the leafy Tiergarten).
Ireland’s Adare Manor provides more typical squirrel habitat on its 840-acre estate in County Limerick. Or go wilder still to photograph squirrels and other Nordic forest dwellers from one of Wild Sweden’s observation hides.
