This Is the Largest Glacier in France — and It Has Snow Caves, a High-elevation Train, and a New Gondola
The glacier near Chamonix is legendary. Now it's getting easier to visit.
Courtesy of Chamonix Mont Blanc
In the world of skiing and mountaineering, Chamonix, France is legendary. The small community sits at the base of Mont Blanc, the highest peak in the Alps, near the point where the most mountainous parts of France, Switzerland, and Italy meet. It is widely considered to be the birthplace of mountaineering and hosted the first-ever Winter Olympic Games in 1924.
This winter, the Chamonix-Mont Blanc Valley will celebrate the 100th anniversary of the Winter Games with some updated offerings. Namely a new gondola to the area’s iconic snow caves, which tunnel through Mer de Glace, the largest glacier in France.
The Mer de Glace (or Sea of Ice), is world-renowned for its size — a size that is dwindling at an unprecedented speed due to the climate crisis. To showcase the visible changes to a glacier, which draws 350,000 visitors every year, Chamonix is revamping and improving access to the site by adding a gondola.
When the gondola opens at the end of January 2024, it will replace the old gondola, effectively providing easier access to the glacier and snow caves. The new gondola will have 16 cabins that can carry 10 passengers each. It will run between Montenvers Station and the glacier and ice caves in the valley below. Visitors have also historically been able to walk to the glacier from the station, although the journey requires a hike up and down 580 steep steps.
Max Coquard-Bestjobers/Courtesy of Chamonix Mont Blanc
And while a ride on the new gondola with overhead views of the glacier and a walk in the ice caves is reason enough to visit, half of the experience takes place before you ever set foot inside the glacier. To get to the Montenvers Station above Chamonix, you must first hop aboard the city’s iconic little red train. The locomotive, which was inaugurated in 1910, has a distinctly retro look and makes the 20-minute trip between the station in Chamonix and Montenvers Station daily on the hour (or more, depending on the number of visitors). From the train, you’ll be treated to ongoing mountain views — including glimpses of Mont Blanc.
Courtesy of Chamonix Mont Blanc
In addition to enjoying the train journey to Montenvers and the gondola trip to the glacier and ice caves, visitors will want to spend some time at the Montenvers Station, which sits at over 6,725 feet above sea level. From the station, visitors can access two high-elevation snowshoe trails or step inside the Glaciorium, a museum dedicated to glaciers.
There is also shopping and dining — with a view. Overnight guests can stay at the Grand Hotel du Montenvers, a historic property that was built in 1880 to accommodate the first mountaineers and travelers to visit Mer de Glace.
Courtesy of Chamonix Mont Blanc
A roundtrip ticket for both the train to Montenvers Station and the gondola to the glacier and ice caves starts at about $28 when you purchase in advance online. Your return ticket can be used up to seven days after your ascent, making it easy to spend a few nights in the Grand Hotel du Montenvers.
Alternatively, you can purchase the 100% Pedestrian Pass, which provides access to the high-altitude outlooks and sites at Planpraz, Brévent, Flégère, Charamillon, and Aiguille du Midi, in addition to Montenvers Station and Mer de Glace. This starts at around $113 for two days and can be extended to 21 days. Access to Montenvers Station and Mer de Glace is also included in the Mont-Blanc Unlimited Pass, which includes ski area access.
When booking your trip, keep in mind that both the new gondola and ice cave are closed until late January 2024 and that there is ongoing work at the Montenvers and Mer de Glace sites. The complete renovation of the area is expected to conclude in December 2025.
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