LaQuan Smith Spring 2023

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There’s some irony to designing clothes for customers who don’t want to wear any. And there’s been a lot of that going on this week, as the body liberation movement has taken over the runways, as it has the streets.

LaQuan Smith took it to the next level with his NSFW collection of hot-hued sheer silk charmeuse dresses over bare breasts; tiny triangle bikini tops and tinier thongs; ultra-high-cut thong bodysuits, and vinyl micro minis.

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Victoria’s Secret should hire him for a swim or lingerie collab, stat. (Speaking of, the designer’s long-awaited Puma collection, teased on the runway last September, is running late due to supply chain difficulties, and probably won’t drop until February.)

Clearly, Smith’s unapologetic eroticism has struck a nerve; longtime fan Beyoncé chose one of his black slashed, high-cut bodysuits and low cut skirts for her latest Tiffany & Co. campaign.

Patti Wilson styled the show, a lifelong dream come true for Smith, Patricia von Musulin designed the sculptural jewelry, and Chris Habana made the molded metal breast cups (complete with pierced nipples), chest and hip plates, which were reminiscent of Tom Ford and Thierry Mugler, perhaps too much so.

Smith also showed sheer lace blouses and sequin pencil skirts, boleros and low-cut cargo pants, baby shearling jackets, technical taffeta short shorts and windbreakers, and new takes on his signature center-cutout jersey gown, as seen on Julia Fox opening last season’s show with the ultimate revenge dress.

“What I really wanted to try to achieve this season was broadening my product categories,” said Smith. “Obviously women come to me for sexy clothing for evening and cocktail, but I wanted to make it broader with day wear and still keep it funky and sexy and flashy.”

Launch Gallery: LaQuan Smith RTW Spring 2023

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