Lanvin Pre-Fall 2024
“Restoring chic to the house” has been the mission of Siddhartha Shukla since arriving as deputy general manager of Lanvin two years ago.
“Leaning into chic and sophistication” is another one of his mantras that encapsulates the product reset he initiated, and the design studio elaborated upon further for pre-fall 2024.
More from WWD
Louis Vuitton Picks Shanghai to Debut 'Voyager Show' Concept
Where Are All the Women Designers? They Are at The Met's Costume Institute
Nancy Cunard, a shipping heiress and writer whose reed-thin body and stacks of ivory bracelets made her a style icon in the 1920 and 1930s, was a key reference for the design team, arguing her mix of “masculine tailoring and bohemian style holds an energy of how we dress today.”
Lanvin’s Paris showroom showcased how much the brand has diversified, vastly expanding its daywear offering, skewed toward statement coats with oversize swagger or roomy bathrobe sleeves, slightly off-kilter knit dresses, and inventive suits that can go from desk to dinner with their sculptural buttons.
The menswear is similarly varied: the fashion-forward looks flirting with geek proportions and offbeat color combinations; the classic business suits made with the finest wools in navy, gray or black.
In between are the requisite logo jerseys and smart-looking T-shirts, some bearing scans of archival embroideries.
Shukla noted that founder Jeanne Lanvin never outsourced her embroideries, and meticulously kept records of all her designs. Several from the 1920s and ’30s are reprised on exceptional pieces from the seasonless Edition Soir range of eveningwear.
Accessories also now run the gamut from roomy leather day bags and Art Deco-tinged crossbody styles to evening clutches topped with crouching cats or hardware that brings to mind Walter de Maria’s “Broken Kilometer,” only fractured into uneven slices.
Lanvin also continues to reinterpret beloved ideas of the late, great Alber Elbaz: his frothy, billowing parachute gowns; his embellished caftans, and his beloved ballerina shoes, here zhushed up with raw-edged grosgrain bows, brass studs and slingback details.
Launch Gallery: Lanvin Pre-Fall 2024
Best of WWD
