The Lake District by bike – how to tackle the Tour of Britain (with stops for beer and sightseeing)
Continuing our series on tackling the route of the 2018 Tour of Britain - at a more leisurely pace - Simon Parker offers a guide to the steep slopes of the Lake District.
The route
This is, without doubt, the most visually stunning of all the tour’s stages this year, starting in Barrow-in-Furness, beside Morecambe Bay and ending 105 miles later on the outskirts of Keswick at Whinlatter Pass. The race is expected to last just under four hours, but most amateurs will want to allow at least double that, because there’s so much scenery worth stopping to admire.
The highlights
Keeping the muddy flats of Morecambe Bay on your right shoulder, you’ll wind north towards the small town of Ulverston, before the route makes a beeline for the lakes via undulating farmland on every horizon. A blistering summer heatwave couldn’t even parch this lush, sweeping landscape - and you’ll find yourself cycling beside soggy, lichen-lined slopes and sleepy farmyards crisscrossed with dry stone walls. If you’ve ever done “bumps and sprints” at a spinning class then this topsy-turvy terrain is the real life version - half a mile up, half a mile down. Repeat.
You’ll follow the A593 that runs adjacent to the five mile long, half a mile wide, Coniston Water - the Lake District’s third largest lake, before reaching the village of Coniston at the northern tip, where you’ll find a bank, a small supermarket and several cafes. From there the route brushes the north side of Windermere, before climbing to over 600 feet at Dunmail Raise, just south of Thirlmere. North of Ambleside there’s a great cycle path that will save you the hassle of cycling on the A591 dual carriageway, taking you on the west side of Thirlmere, beside mossy banks and towering pine trees resembling oversized Christmas trees. Finally the route descends into Keswick where you can either complete a further 40-mile loop to Cockermouth and Workington, or (like me) save it to the next morning when your legs stop feeling like jelly.
Rest and refuel
Abbey House Hotel (01229 838282; abbeyhousehotel.com) is just a mile from the centre of Barrow-in-Furness and the suites are huge, with bathtubs and showers, sofas and fireplaces. The restaurant, Oscar’s, has hearty salads, local sausages and steaks. Breakfast is served from 0645am, which is perfect for an early start, and there are Manx kippers from the Isle of Man, just across the Irish Sea. Doubles from £70.
About five miles from the end of the race, west of Keswick, The Cottage in the Wood (01768 778409; thecottageinthewood.co.uk) is a delightfully cosy spot and positioned right beside the route. The food is exceptional and has become something of a local foodie pilgrimage in recent years. There’s Morecambe Bay crab, locally reared pork medallions and foraged forest foods where possible. The scrambled eggs with smoked bacon and chanterelle mushrooms are delicious. Doubles from £130.
Short cuts?
If you’re getting the train from Lancaster then you might want to get off at Ulverston and join the route there, instead of going all the way to Barrow-in-Furness. This will shave off the flattish 11-mile portion at the start of the stage that skirts Morecambe Bay.
Getting there and away
By train this is certainly a bit of schlep from most corners of the UK, but it’s worth it. A one-way fare from London to Barrow-in-Furness varies between £47 and £109 and it takes roughly 3 hours and 45 minutes. There’s no train station in Keswick so you’ll need to either ride a further 17 miles to Penrith or take a taxi. Fares from Penrith to London start at £44.
The verdict
Spectacularly beautiful from start to finish - this stage boasts the most expansive views and the fewest people. If I could ride one stage over and over again, it would be this one.
Difficulty rating 4/5
More information
The best hotels in the Lake District
Read our Lake District travel guide
Why autumn is the best time to visit the Lake District
