La Double J RTW Fall 2022
Ever the fashion guru, J.J. Martin has the ideal message for right now: “Bring your heart out of the closet, throw love bombs not war bombs,” she said, rattling off the mantras on her Via Sant’Andrea store windows, which are a testament to her lifelong spiritual journey. She even launched a spiritual newsletter to talk about it.
And with Balinese paper leaves on the ceiling, symbol-laden wallpaper in the hallway and a downstairs “goddess cave,” her budding lifestyle boutique is certainly like no other in the Golden Triangle. For one, it makes you smile, something sorely missing from a lot of fashion brands today.
More from WWD
Founded by the editor-turned-designer in 2015, the company originally launched as a shoppable magazine selling vintage clothes and jewelry — one of Martin’s multiple passions — but quickly pivoted to become an original collection, later adding accessories and home goods.
“Everything is 100 percent Made in Italy, with historic manufacturers, and that’s really rare today,” she said during a fall preview. “We’re focused on fabrication and quality, our silk is printed in the same place as Vuitton and Gucci, but look at their prices.”
Martin is keeping everything — home excluded — in the advanced contemporary category. And her love of vintage, color and print, and ability to put it all together into a world with feel-good spiritual messages, is positioning her well for expansion.
She’s gathering a team for growth, recently bringing on as chief brand officer Julia Leach, who started her career with Kate and Andy Spade, and has since worked with brands including Ralph Lauren and Target.
Martin’s vision is clear: “I’m not trying to reinvent fashion, we’re just trying to nail silhouettes women love,” she said.
The prints she introduces each season, some based on vintage, others originals, create a collectibility aspect, too. In addition to the chic florals and geometrics, there’s always an oddball: for fall, it’s cherries.
The collection leans toward the folkloric, with warm hues, and peppy patterns. In addition to her easy blouses, full skirts and dresses, she pumped up her knitwear offerings, including groovy knit sets, diamond pattern mohair wool ski sweaters and, just for fun, a 3D cherry knit crewneck.
She’s done well with puffer coats, and this season has one in a joyful jacquard that reverses to a print. A khaki-to-print reversible quilted silk car coat, and a silk print lined fuzzy shearling vest also looked great.
Floral velvet suits, velvet burnout dresses, over-knee boots and printed sequin gowns added a whiff of bohemian glam for nights in St. Tropez, or J.J.’s original hometown, L.A.
Launch Gallery: La DoubleJ RTW Fall 2022
Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram.
