Global lockdowns got everyone rethinking fashion presentations, resulting in a slew of complicated story lines and action shots to show clothing through the screen. Marching to his own beat, Junichi Abe opted for a steady stroll and pushed his models onto a treadmill, with robot cameras moving around for close-ups.
What better way to take in the layers, color mixes, complicated constructions, patches, external stitching — and the silhouettes as a whole? Abe is known for bringing together distinct classics, chopping them up and reattaching them in new ways, without stripping their original identity. He’ll toss the side panel of a bright red sweater over the shoulder of a bomber jacket in a muted color, throw a striped polo-shirt collar onto a wide workwear shirt, or apply patches of a lacy material to a trench coat — all of which was in his spring lineup.
More from WWD
The coed collection was billed as another exercise in Abe’s “new style of minimalism,” — like last season — as he continued his quest for balanced proportions and harmonious color combos, according to show notes.
It was also rather elegant, and much of it felt like evening wear with sheer fabrics and silver material, often layered with more ordinary, daytime pieces, like a pair of khaki trousers. Dressier looks included a long, pleated skirts in silver; slouchy velours pants, gathered at the ankles; a sheer trench coat, that also had a sporty vibe; suits in bright colors and looks in pastel colors.
Accessories were also pretty fancy, including beaded belts, clear plastic mules with a slight heel and a studded necklace — serving effectively to prod people out the door for a night on the town, one imagined.
“I sincerely hope the everyday life before this pandemic is back again soon,” said Abe, in an emailed response to questions, noting the progress of vaccinations around the world. The designer added he felt uneasy while designing the collection, and stayed true to this feeling rather than forcing cheerfulness.
Launch Gallery: Kolor Men's Spring 2022