What to Know About Seawool: a More Natural Fabric Made From Oyster Shells, Recycled PET
Oyster shells are powering some sea-worthy textile innovations.
Although trade show attendees may recognize one such branded fabric, “Seawool,” from walk-throughs of fabrics with organic and mineral-based origins, the average consumer may still be newly endeared to sea-derived materials.
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Its importance to fashion is that the material fits into a growing pool of more natural or lower footprint material innovations. (The verdict is out on its consideration as a vegan option.)
After years of dedicated research, Taiwan-based manufacturer Hans Global Textile unveiled the innovative, patented Seawool fabric in 2017. As a byproduct of neighboring oyster farms, the oyster shells are sustainably sourced, ground into powder and mixed with recycled PET plastic bottles (thus it is not biodegradable).
Seawool claims a 99 percent comparability to wool with 1 kilogram of Seawool recycling approximately 60 plastic bottles. The recycled oyster shell blended material has a soft hand and boasts near-identical properties to wool, making it naturally antibacterial, anti-static, odorless and insulating. Seawool also boasts UV and infrared protection. Because of these properties, the fabric makes for an innovative addition to wardrobes in either cold or warm months.
Who’s Using It — And How?
A lot of sustainable brands are already tapping Seawool, in part, for their lines.
Though, the idea of sea-derived textiles doesn’t begin with Seawool. Taiwan’s export economy is dominated by industrial goods today, and oyster farming has a 300-year-old history in Taiwan with some 160,000 tons of oyster shells deposited each year. In ancient times, “sea wool” or “sea silk” also referred to the precious fabrics harvested from mussels in Egyptian and Roman times.
Given the material’s coastal backstory, it is a natural fit for nautical-inspired collections, including fisherman sweaters and coastal layering needs. Pants, lightweight shirts, flannels, knits, gloves and blankets are also possible.
For Montreal-based Frank and Oak, the material found its way into seafarer-inspired sweaters using a blend of Seawool, wool and recycled polyester a couple years back. Seawool also makes appearances in collections carried by San Francisco-based online men’s retailer Huckberry and New York-based sustainable fashion label SiiZu, each using it in sweaters.
Huckberry proudly touts the benefits on its website. “Instead of piling up, shells discarded by the food industry are now put to work in the soft, knit layers that protect us from chilly temps and coastal squalls. Moisture wicking, antiodor, anti-static and toasty as a hearth, they’ll serve you for years while working toward a cleaner future for our waters.”
Be it water bottles or oyster shells, brands are already tallying their reuse efforts. Oyster shells — another would-be discard — are already getting quantified in brand missions akin to partnerships with nonprofits like Parley for the Oceans. For the Long Wharf Supply Co. brand (carried at select, high-end surf shops), its SeaWell collection (a play on Seawool, which it uses) celebrated how each garment effectively diverts five oyster shells and eight water bottles from landfills.
How to Care for It
As with wool, high heat damages the fabric and caution is advised for high-heat iron or steam treatments (instead, a warm iron is suggested). When in doubt, specialty garments should be hung or shaped to dry for best results, according to brand SiiZu’s care guide.
A product profile for the material on digital sourcing platform Performance Days underlined that Seawool is naturally quick-drying. Seawool is also printable, cooling and water repellant without the need for harmful chemicals. For additional chemical safety assurance, Seawool’s producer Hans Global Textile also counts Global Recycled Standard, Oeko Tex Standard 100 and Bluesign-certified facilities.
Testing and certifications aside, community feedback may be a trusted sign of fabric properties.
One line of Seawool-powered fabrics from Robert Kaufman Fabrics has been chalking up praise among the sewing community for the fabric’s general ease of use and care — including the ability to be machine washed and dried on warm without shrinkage, and its ability to get softer over time. One blogger, Kate McIvor from The Confident Stitch, did note that the fabrics provided little stretch and were susceptible to fraying.
Pilling could also be a potential sign of wear with Seawool fabrics given its textured body and similarity to wool.
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