The Complete Guide to Getting a Perm, According to Hair Experts
We consulted pros to explain the various types of perms, the step-by-step process, and the best way to maintain your curls.
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The world of perms is undeniably complex. Not only do they involve a chemical process that borders on scientific, but they encompass an array of styles—straight, wavy, and curly. The appeal is that you can change your hair texture and thus simplify your daily styling process.
But before you impulsively book an appointment to give it a try, doing your research is of utmost importance. Rest assured, we’re here to guide you. Ahead, we’re breaking down everything you need to know about how to get the perfect perm for your hair type.
Meet the Experts
Aaron Grenia is the co-founder of IGK Hair Care.
Andrew Zumbo is an American Crew stylist and ambassador.
What Is a Perm?
Let’s start with the basics: “A perm is short for ‘permanent wave,’” says Aaron Grenia, co-founder of IGK Hair Care. It’s “a popular hairstyling method that adds texture, volume, and shape.”
Modern perms aren’t as aggressively fluffy as those of the ‘70s and ‘80s—and they're easier on the hair, too. They’re “generally milder and less damaging compared to older formulations and often have shorter processing times,” Grenia adds.
Even the tools have evolved. “Modern perms offer a variety of rod sizes and shapes, allowing for more customized and natural-looking curls or waves,” he says. Older techniques, on the other hand, “often produced uniform and sometimes overly tight curls.”
What to Expect During the Perm Process
Getting your hair permed can take several hours, so make sure you have lots of free time on your calendar before booking an appointment. And do your research ahead of time, selecting a salon that specializes in perms. Don’t be afraid to do a deep dive into your prospective stylist’s Instagram feed to ensure you like—and trust—their work.
Step 1: Wash and Wrap
After consulting with a hairstylist about your desired result, they’ll thoroughly wash your hair to remove any styling products, oil, or dirt before sectioning your hair and wrapping it around perm rods or rollers, says Grenia. The size and type of rod they use determine the size and type of your new curls or waves. (They’ll wrap the hair “tightly for smaller, tighter curls, or more loosely for larger, looser waves,” he adds).
Step 2: Apply Solution and Wait
Once the hair is wrapped around the rods, your hairstylist will apply a chemical solution. “This breaks down the disulfide bonds in the hair, which are responsible for the hair's natural shape,” explains Grenia. After that, you’ll sit pretty as your hair processes, which varies in time depending on your hair type. On average, it’s around 15 to 20 minutes, per Grenia.
Step 3: Rinse and Neutralize
After the processing time is complete, your hairstylist will remove the perm rods and then rinse your hair to ensure it’s free of the chemical solution. “A neutralizing solution will be applied to lock in the new curl shape,” says Andrew Zumbo, an American Crew stylist. “This neutralization step is vital because it reforms the hair bonds in the new curly or wavy shape you desire,” he adds.
Step 4: Final Rinse and Condition
Finally, your hairstylist will rinse your hair again. “The hair is then gently rinsed once more, and a conditioning treatment may be applied to restore moisture and maintain the health of the hair,” Grenia concludes.
Different Types of Perms
In your 1:1 consultation with your hairstylist, you’ll determine which style is best for you. “The perm today has a modern revamp to create more lived-in and relaxed curls and waves, as opposed to that of your grandmother's tightly set perm that reigned supreme back in the day,” says Zumbo. The following types of perms are highly sought-after today:
Spiral Perm
A spiral perm is ideal for those who want defined and textured curls, says Zumbo. To get this look, the pro explains that the hair is "wrapped around long rods in a spiral pattern" to create "uniform curls that start at the roots and cascade down."
Body Wave Perm
Prefer looser, gentler waves? A body wave perm might be the perfect option. Per Zumbo, it “involves wrapping sections of hair around larger rods to achieve a more relaxed and natural-looking wave pattern. Unlike tight curls, body wave perms give a softer and subtler texture, providing volume and movement.”
Beach Wave Perm
For loose, tousled waves that look like you spent the day by the ocean, Zumbo recommends a beach wave perm for a fuller, more voluminous look.
Volume-Boosting Perm
If volume is your top priority, consider a root perm, as seen here. Zumbo emphasizes that this type of perm is tailored to add lift and volume, making it ideal for individuals with fine or thin hair.
Straight Perm
Straight perms are also known as "thermal reconditioning," notes Zumbo. The point, as you might guess, is to straighten curly or wavy hair. He says it’s “popular among individuals with frizzy or unruly curls that want a sleek and smooth look that’s long-lasting.
Digital Perm
Digital perms are a newer type of perm that originated in Japan. Also known as a hot perm, this treatment uses rods connected to a heater with a digital display so your stylist can regulate the temperature. If you're looking for beachy waves rather than tight curls, a digital perm is the way to go.
Pin Curl Perm
Pin curls are achieved by taking sections of damp hair, rolling them up around your fingers, and pinning them to your scalp until they dry. The result is 1920s-esque finger waves. Pin curl perms usually don't require rollers (they use the same technique as regular pin curls), but the drawback is that they don't generally last as long as regular perms.
Spot Perm
If you have wavy or curly hair but have sections that fall a bit straighter, a spot perm could be the solution. With spot perms, the stylist only applies rollers to specific portions of the hair, not the entire head. The goal is to achieve a more uniform look for curlies or wavies struggling with multiple hair textures.
Stack Perm
Stack perms use different sizes of rods on each layer of the hair from bottom to top, creating a layered appearance without a layered cut. The stylist uses larger rods on the bottom layers, medium rods on the middle layers, and the smallest rods on the top layers, creating the look of a "stacked" cut.
Multi-Textured Perms
One of the more popular methods, a multi-textured perm uses different-sized rods randomly throughout the hair to achieve a natural look. The multi-textured perm mimics natural curls and waves by interspersing tighter curls and looser waves throughout the hair.
Braid Perm
A braid perm is exactly what the name suggests—the stylist braids the hair and then applies a perm solution. The solution locks in the waves, giving the hair a more crimped texture than a traditional rod perm.
Frequently Asked Questions
Who is the best candidate for a perm?
Not everyone is an ideal candidate for a perm. After all, they “work best on hair that is naturally straight or has a slight wave,” says Grenia. “Hair that is already very curly may not take to the perm solution as well and could result in overly tight or frizzy curls.”
You should not proceed with getting a perm if your hair is unhealthy. “If your hair is damaged, overly processed, or has a lot of split ends, you may not be the best candidate for a perm,” he warns. “The chemicals in the perm solution can further weaken damaged hair.”
How long does a perm last?
How long a perm lasts ultimately depends on a variety of factors, says Grenia, including your hair type, the type of curls or waves you’ve chosen, your hair care routine, and how fast your hair grows. He says that, on average, it can last anywhere from two to six months before needing a touch-up.
Can I perm my hair at home?
Do-it-yourself perms have become popular on social media platforms like TikTok, but the hairstylists consulted for this piece advise against doing it on your own. “While DIY hairstyling can be fun and cost-effective for some tasks, perming is a complex chemical process that requires professional expertise to ensure both safety and successful results,” cautions Grenia. “Potential risks of a DIY perm include chemical irritation or burns, under or over-processing, and damage to the hair.”
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