Get to Know the 2018 CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund Finalists
Bright and early on Wednesday morning—as in 7:30 a.m. early—a gaggle of “boss bitches,” girls in prairie dresses, and guys in quilted suits mingled backstage at Milk Studios. The only way this image could make sense in late July? The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, of course. For the first phase of the competition, the 10 finalists—who just received the news last week—were tasked with presenting their stories, key looks, and aspirations to a panel of judges including Vogue’s Anna Wintour, Mark Holgate, and Nicole Phelps; CFDA president Steven Kolb; Instagram’s director of fashion partnerships, Eva Chen; and designers Diane von Furstenberg and Joseph Altuzarra, among others. Needless to say, the pressure was on.
We caught up with the designers after their whirlwind morning to talk about their dream clients, their least likely inspirations, the music they play in the studio, and a lot more. (A few reveals: One is obsessed with Gregorian chants; another wants to dress Woody Harrelson; and two of them idolize John Galliano. . . .) Meet all 10 design talents below, and check back for more of our CVFF coverage through November 5, when the winner will be announced at an awards ceremony.
Batsheva, Batsheva Hay
Based: New York, NY
Launched: 2016
How would you describe your brand in three words? “Adventurous, wearable, affordable.”
Who is your design icon and why? “Ruth Bader Ginsburg. I love her collars; she’s a cool lady. The woman I’m designing for is not someone who just wants to follow what everyone else is doing, she’s a woman with a point of view and confidence. That being said, I’d love to design for Beyoncé too.”
What inspires you right now outside of fashion? “I think I’m very, very inspired by women who are offbeat and outside of the fashion world. The women shopping at Fairway in a dress and sneakers and a fanny pack, or Amish women, or Hasidic Jewish women. . . . To me, what’s interesting is the idea of someone having personal style that’s not just [meant] to be worn on the streets in Soho.”
Who is your dream client? “I really want to dress Oprah. There are so many women [I admire]—I love Cate Blanchett, and I love dressing my friends. Hailey Gates is a muse for me. It’s all driven by dressing myself, too—it really is personal.”
What music do you listen to at work? “I listen to podcasts. That’s kind of it—I’m always walking around with a podcast on. It’s so hard to get information [right now], so my music is information. I like The Daily and Fresh Air.”
Bode, Emily Adams Bode
Based: New York, NY
Launched: 2016
How would you describe your brand in three words? “Poetic, historical, domesticity.”
Who is your design icon and why? “I always have tear sheets of Herman Hesse, which is kind of funny because he would never be considered [a style icon]. When he lived in Switzerland, a lot of his photos revolved around writing and leisure time—he’s hanging out with his friends and wearing these suits that almost look akin to a safari suit, or he’s gardening. . . . That’s where I find a lot of inspiration, from a lifestyle point of view. He was an intellectual who dressed in a way that really spoke to leisure activities.”
What inspires you right now outside of fashion? “Furniture, right now. We just did a collaboration with Green River Project. Moving into a new apartment and understanding space a little bit more, now that I’m older and not just living in post-college apartments, I have a new appreciation for furniture and spacial design.”
Who is your dream client? “As of right now, I think Andre 3000. I also always say Woody Harrelson, and maybe Robert DeNiro.”
What music do you listen to at work? “I’m from Atlanta, so I have a vast appreciation for both rap and more independent bands. I listen to a lot of Deerhunter.”
How does it feel to be a CVFF finalist? “It’s such an honor, because I grew up watching [the television series]. It’s the same kind of feeling I got when I got my first review on Vogue Runway. I’d seen it in my head, but to actualize it feels really wonderful, and to remeet all of these New York fashion icons is really inspiring.”
Christian Cowan, Christian Cowan
Based: New York, NY
Launched: 2017
How would you describe your brand in three words? “Energetic, Internet, confident.”
Who is your design icon and why? “My all-time artistic inspiration is John Galliano. To me, he is the god of fashion.”
What inspires you right now outside of fashion? “I was very much a child of the Internet—I grew up in the countryside, and I was plugged in. When I go through my designs, I think, does this capture people? Will they click on it if they see it online? Will a celebrity see it and feel like they have to wear it? Will a woman walk into a store and feel confident and amazing in it? That’s really my inspiration.”
Who is your dream client? “I’ve been lucky enough to dress some of my dream people already, like Beyoncé, Lady Gaga, and Ariana Grande. . . . My one dream client I haven’t dressed is Elton John. I do womenswear, but Elton would be my exception. Recently I did get loads of my outfits on the extras in one of his new music videos, though.”
What music do you listen to at work? “The first thing is, my music is very loud, to drown out the outside world. It ranges from dubstep to my favorite opera Tristan and Isolde.”
How does it feel to be a CVFF finalist? “Excitement is the main word. Coming to America as a designer and launching my brand here, the [Fashion Fund] has always been something I wanted to do. It’s generated some of the best designers in America. The panelists are all idols of mine and they’re people I’ve always looked up to, as well. So to be able to talk about my work with them is an amazing opportunity.”
Hunting Season, Danielle Corona
Based: New York, NY
Launched: 2006
How would you describe your brand in three words? “Timeless, discreet elegance.”
Who is your design icon and why? “I have so many. I really value brands that focus on traditional craftsmanship—for us, it’s always about making a great product. So I admire the brands who do a great job with that, especially in the leather world, like Hermès—brands that have stayed around and are still relevant, and [are] heritage brands people trust. As far as personal style, I’ve been thinking about Carolyn Bessette Kennedy—a [kind of] style that’s timeless, unpretentious, not desperate for attention, but always getting noticed. That’s what I try to do in my designs.”
What inspires you right now outside of fashion? “I love furniture design. Sometimes we do objects for the home. I like things that are architectural and simple, but have a dramatic presence.”
Who is your dream client? “I actually just had a 20-year-old girl write to me, and she wanted the same bag that my grandmother chose from the collection. The fact that I can offer a product to two people in completely different worlds and stages of their lives, and they can interpret the brand their way—that feels really nice.”
What music do you listen to at work? “Jazz, classical music, reggae—nothing new and hip! But that’s what makes me feel inspired.”
Jonathan Cohen, Jonathan Cohen and Sarah Leff
Based: New York, NY
Launched: 2011
How would you describe your brand in three words? “Subversive, elegant, artistic.”
Who is your design icon and why? “I love ’90s Gwyneth. . . .”
What inspires you right now outside of fashion? “This season I’ve been listening to a lot of music and thinking about how musicians write songs, and how that can translate to designing a collection. Last season, we were looking at the girls of Grey Gardens, and [I am still into] that eclectic vibe.”
Who is your dream client? “I’d love to dress Michelle Obama and Laura Harrier. I got into fashion because of Madonna’s cone bra, so I’d love to have a pop-star moment too! Rihanna is always on my list.”
What music do you listen to at work? “Right now I’m listening to The Cure, Siouxsie and the Banshees. . . . I grew up on a lot of classic rock. And Radiohead, I just went to their show last week. And Lauryn Hill.”
How does it feel to be a CVFF finalist? “Before we got the call that we were in, we were reading about Proenza Schouler [coming back to New York for Fashion Week], one of the first people who were in the Fund, and then I was working for Doo-Ri [Chung] and saw her go through the Fund. . . . It’s been a dream to be in the same space, and to talk to people I’ve been wanting to meet since I was little. It’s unbelievable.”
Luar, Raul Lopez
Based: New York
Launched: 2016
How would you describe your brand? “It’s for someone who’s a boss bitch, who feels comfortable in her own skin.”
Who is your design icon and why? “John Galliano. I’ve always been obsessed with the way he deigns. I would love to work under him and see his creative process. How does he come up with these ideas? He looks at things and flips it another way, and I think I do that too—I always say I love everything people hate. I want to be a legacy [like him]—Chalayan, Galliano, Gaultier; they’ve each built a legacy that’s going to live forever.”
What inspires you right now outside of fashion? “I’m inspired by corporate women that leave their jobs in sneakers. . . . I’m inspired by homeless people on 38th Street and 8th Avenue. . . . I’m obsessed with ugly things; anything people hate is usually is what I gravitate towards. [I want] to make it beautiful so people can understand it.”
Who is your dream client? “Solange, who is a good friend as well. I love women who are empowered by themselves and don’t need a man to tell them they look good. They can step out and be confident in their own skin. They don’t need the affirmation.”
What music do you listen to at work? “This is going to sound weird, but I listen to Dark Age chants. I’m really obsessed with the Renaissance, too—my roommates are always like, do you have to listen to this all day? But it brings me into this really Zen zone.”
How does it feel to be a CVFF finalist? “I mean, I’m completely humbled, just because I was born and raised in New York and have been obsessed with fashion since I was a kid. I didn’t go to fashion school, so to me, this is kind of like a graduation. I couldn’t afford to go to college for fashion, so I taught myself in libraries and through shows. The Fund is something I really need as a platform that can help me move forward [as a business] and be able to hire people to help me. I do everything myself! I want to keep producing in New York, to pay homage to my mom—she came from the Dominican Republic and worked in the Garment District, so it’s kind of like paying homage to everybody who came before me. Staying here and having everything made here feels so organic and real to me.”
Matthew Adams Dolan, Matthew Adams Dolan
Based: New York, NY
Launched: 2014
How would you describe your brand in three words? “Easy, denim, and legacy—I’m really interested in how American style has developed throughout history.”
Who is your design icon and why? “Little Edie [Beale]? [laughs] I don’t know, I really like people who aren’t afraid to do whatever they want. I also find it so interesting when you’re at an airport, because you get such a big cross section of people, and a lot of them are wearing the same thing. You’re standing in a line and there’s 10 guys in cargo shorts and polos, or you’re on Wall Street, and everyone is in a suit. . . . I think it’s so weird to see that. The idea of uniforms is really cool. And then you see a downtown girl doing her own thing. Those different archetypes are really interesting.”
What inspires you right now outside of fashion? “I’m really obsessed with reading biographies. I find it really fascinating. I’m rereading this huge trilogy on Picasso. I read a lot, I’m super geeky. I think it’s important to take a step back [from fashion] and look at other things.”
Who is your dream client? “Rihanna! Who’s better than Rihanna?”
What music do you listen to at work? “I can’t listen to anything current, because I get distracted. I don’t often listen to music at work, but if I need something on, I listen to soul music and disco. It’s just cheery and upbeat.”
How does it feel to be a CVFF finalist? “It’s very exciting. New York [fashion] has been so supported by this program, so it’s really amazing to be a part of it. The mentorship we have access to and the people we get to talk to is super important, especially at this stage of my company. It’s such an important time, and to have contact with these kinds of people is crucial.”
Pyer Moss, Kerby Jean-Raymond
Based: New York, NY
Launched: 2013
How would you describe your brand in three words? “Storytelling, humor, and wit.”
Who is your design icon and why? “There actually aren’t too many people I look at for fashion and style, which I think is why I design the way I do—it’s like a blank slate. I don’t have a specific person in mind besides myself and my friends, and what we’re into.”
What inspires you right now outside of fashion? “I’m really inspired by fine artists, like Deana Lawson, Derrick Adams, Mickalene Thomas, Henry Taylor. . . . I’ve been revisiting Barkley Hendricks’s old work, and Kerry James Marshall. Those are who I’m into at the moment.”
Who is your dream client? “I’m actually working with her, Lauryn Hill.”
What music do you listen to at work? “It really depends. My team is very in sync when it comes to music, and everyone has an ‘aux day.’ Yesterday I had the aux, so I played a lot of hip-hop from the 1999–2003 era—early Kanye West, Clipse, Eminem. My favorite rapper is DMX, and I play a lot of gospel music, too.”
How does it feel to be a CVFF finalist? “This is really special, first because of the past winners, but also because Anna [Wintour] is so closely involved. She’s someone I really look up to and respect. The other candidates are designers I really respect, too.”
Rebecca de Ravenel, Rebecca de Ravenel
Based: Los Angeles, California
Launched: 2015
How would you describe your brand in three words? “Feminine, whimsical, and empowering.”
Who is your design icon and why? “Yves Saint Laurent for me will always be the epitome of style. He had this sense of mixing colors, no one did black velvet like him, and he made prints like no one else. He and Loulou [de la Falaise] complemented each other so well, with the layers and layers of jewelry. . . . His vision was so incredible. He will always and forever be an inspiration to me.”
What inspires you right now outside of fashion? “I always say interiors inspire my collections, and I start [each collection] thinking about where my girl is sitting in the room. But what’s funny is that I’ve been looking at gardens recently, and my girl has moved outside. I’m looking at botanicals, landscaping designers, Bunny Mellon . . . so it’s shifted a bit from interiors to the outdoors. That might be because I’m in California, as well.”
Who is your dream client? “People ask me that quite a lot, and I think what is so amazing about [my signature earrings] the Bon Bons is that so many people wear them. Obviously, I would love to see them on Beyoncé, but what’s brilliant is that [everyone from] brides to younger girls to older women are wearing them—it’s a multigenerational customer. That’s my ideal customer—the woman who is buying for herself, her daughter, and her granddaughter.”
What music do you listen to at work? “I don’t! It distracts me. But, being from the Bahamas, I’m a reggae girl though and through.”
How does it feel to be a CVFF finalist? “I have to say I’m extremely proud. I never in a million years thought I would be here. I almost didn’t apply, because I didn’t think I had a chance! It’s very humbling to think that what I put out there matters, in the sense that people are paying attention. It’s a very daunting feeling, but very fun at the same time.”
Scosha, Scosha Woolridge
Based: New York, NY
Launched: 2007
How would you describe your brand in three words? “Playful, approachable, and wearable.”
Who is your design icon and why? “Frida Kahlo, and in fashion, I tend to really like Old World style, like Sophia Loren.”
What inspires you right now outside of fashion? “I love architecture and textiles. It’s always about design—right now I’d designing a house in the Rockaways, so that’s inspiring me too.”
Who is your dream client? “Anyone who loves it! Also, the Kravitzes—Zoë is awesome, and her dad [Lenny].”
What music do you listen to at work? “I don’t even hear the music! I don’t hear anything. When I get home, I need silence. But if I do put something on, it’s probably Fleetwood Mac or Edith Piaf.”
