Kiko Kostadinov womenswear co-creative directors Laura and Deanna Fanning looked to mythology both ancient and modern for their latest collection, presented in Paris after the brand showed nine seasons in London.
“People look to mythologies, when generally they need to hope and wish. And we think hope is a really important, emotional expression we need to have at this moment in time,” they said.
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A particular touchstone was the work of French-born, Australian artist Mirka Mora, whose bright, colorful and almost childlike paintings made her a pioneer in the contemporary art movement Down Under. Those colors and whimsy were at play here, adding new direction for the duo, who moved away from the stiffer fabrics and shapes they’ve shown before.
The brand has been collaborating with Asics for several season now, but this time around developed all of their footwear in-house. They brought out round-toed ballet flats that lace up Roman style, and most masterfully a sheer mesh cowboy boot embellished with stars, sea horses and moons. They played with knitwear, with colorful sweaters serving as disembodied cowl necks on top of denim jackets and trousers.
Trousers and the Trivia bag, which are among the line’s bestsellers, were carried over here to cement the collection’s continuity, while there was still a Y2K sensibility.
Reflecting on the newfound freedom of movement, they shifted toward sportier silhouettes using silk georgette and transparent nylon mesh on color-blocked layers, with the gradient of shades on bike shorts building and shifting tones as models caught different light on the runway.
The runway itself was unique, playing on those sporty codes in the gym of one of Paris’ top high schools. Guests sat on tumbling mats and sports equipment. It was a slam dunk.
Launch Gallery: Kiko Kostadinov RTW Spring 2023