Kiko Kostadinov Men’s Spring 2024

Jennifer Weil
·2 min read
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While creating this elegant collection, Kiko Kostandinov envisioned a performance venue’s backstage and stage.

“A lot of the looks and the design are almost like a boy has been rehearsing all day, and they’ve just been pulled out on the stage,” he explained. “We have more robes, more dress-up looks, so it’s kind of in between both worlds.”

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The designer also had in mind the work of filmmaker Pier Paolo Pasolini, such as “La Ricotta,” in which the director plays a director. That is filmed in black-and-white, with flashes of bright colors, informing both the show’s meta moment and fashion’s hues.

Presented in Paris’ Lycée Henri-IV, attendees walked through a vast room created to look like a backstage, with clothes racks, boxes and catwalk monitors, although generally, that is where Kostadinov’s shows actually take place. Instead, guests sat where the backstage usually was.

A short section featuring colorful, clashing stripes was sandwiched between somber-toned looks. The multihued knitwear had a subtle “K” logo integrated into the weave, as did some shirts, created with darting.

Vague miliary references included spirals of individual hand-rolled jersey strips appearing on tunics, coat sleeves and trousers. Sartorial looks with twists abounded, such as the jumpsuit in iridescent herringbone appearing like a waistcoat with formal trousers, coming with darts of shiny liner material.

Some garments had broad shoulders, as a follow-over from last season. Wearers can morph some clothes, such as one shirt that changes shape when fabric is woven through eyelets on its side. Organza frills can be added into a jacket collar.

“Again, there are a lot of options how you can style the pieces,” said Kostadinov, who personally likes to mix references, to fresh effect. “For me, it’s always trying to take away the origin from [fashion].”

Launch Gallery: Kiko Kostadinov Men's Spring 2024

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