Describing something as a horror show is usually not a welcome description, but for Japanese designer Hiroaki Sueyasu, it was the intention.
After showing his line Kidill digitally for three seasons, Sueyasu staged his first physical presentation on the official calendar with a piece of performance art inspired by bloody cult classics “Dr. Caligari” and “Suspiria.” Titled “Hell Haus,” models were strewn about the floor amongst severed limbs and rose periodically to sleepwalk around, zombie-style, as the room filled with smoke. Other looks were hung, jarringly, on mannequins bagged and bound around the mouth with duct tape and hanging from nooses.
More from WWD
The designer, himself clad in a Korn T-shirt, is devoted to the aesthetic. He’s been building the brand for eight years, looking to ‘80s England while mining punk codes for a modern twist.
“I love British fashion, it’s one of the bases, that’s why you feel some conservative elements,” Sueyasu said. Classic plaid, schoolgirl skirts and sailor-collard coats were topped with wicker hats — demure at first look but accessorized with razor blades. Floral prints, too, had innocent underpinnings, toughened up with bondage belts. It was a balancing act. He collaborated with Antwerp-based graphic designer Tom Tosseyn to create a swirled psychedelic print that worked especially well on double denim suits.
With fans including Machine Gun Kelly, Sueyasu knows his audience. With this collection he pushes to the edge, and goes just a little bit beyond.
Launch Gallery: Kidill Men's Spring 2023