Khaite Spring 2023

Catherine Holstein took a road trip out West, at least in her mind, while dreaming up her latest Khaite collection.

“I was going through a very David Lynch ‘Lost Highway,’ ‘Wild at Heart’ phase this summer,” she said backstage, noting the snakeskin, bold zippers, crystal and fringe motifs, and the sinister Southwest and Sin City Las Vegas vibes.

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Certainly there is a bit of a fashion outlaw in Holstein. But her collections don’t really have themes. Rather, they are about the perfect piece on the coolest woman in the room.

Holstein is so sure of herself that what’s on the runway is what you see at retail — there is no line between runway fantasy and reality.

Clearly a lot of effort goes into making a black biker jacket fit and crop just so; a denim jacket that’s just oversized enough, with slouchy pockets and a wide waistband that settles mid-thigh, or a python embossed calfskin belted short trench with shoulders in just the right proportion to bring drama but not too much.

An oversize blazer with crystal lapels was one of the designer’s bolder statements — Hollywood bound, perhaps. More subtle was a black sequined chemise dress updated for spring with fringe spilling out from the hem. A Swarovski crystal dusted blouse, tucked into a black pencil skirt, was another forever piece. From age 20 to 80, there was something for everyone.

A woman designing for women, Holstein makes her bodysuits and corsets with softness in mind, using lace knit that’s featherweight. They were tucked into satin bubble skirts, which she’s been doing since before they became a trend. Those who know know; Khaite prides itself on being stealth.

Per usual, there were lots of new accessories, including a great-looking ankle strap evening sandal with a Lucite heel, and the Olivia bag made over in a wonderfully weird, sort of Lynchian vinyl.

Femme fatales wanted.

Launch Gallery: Khaite RTW Spring 2023

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