Kallmeyer RTW Spring 2023

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Over the summer, designer Daniella Kallmeyer renovated her Orchard Street storefront and moved her showroom and design space into a new Lower East Side space.

Despite big changes, the designer’s spring collection centered around the idea of sitting with quiet moments through restrained silhouettes. There was plenty of strong new tailoring with sensual, easy layers for hot summer days. Kallmeyer joked it was “the balance between naked and fully tailored.”

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The look: Quiet, chic sophistication.

Quote of note: “A majority of fabrics in this collection I picked while in Italy. My friend took me to a deadstock warehouse, I picked the fabrics and purchased them there and then, which is something we’d never been able to do before because we were beholden to wholesale,” the designer said.

Key pieces: A strong variety of pared-back tailoring and suiting including vests, blazers and sleek trousers; a zebra-print-inspired coat; white dresses and suiting — an alternative bridal and formalwear from her ongoing custom client orders; new halter-neck-inspired vests; laceweight cotton crochet bralettes; sensual, lightweight foil chiffon dresses.

The takeaway: For over 10 years, the designer — who said “I feel we’re a quiet dark horse of the industry, but we’re fine that way” — has been churning out collections of wearable, elevated fashions, which spring’s pared-back assortment continued to exude.

Launch Gallery: Kallmeyer RTW Spring 2023

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