JW Anderson Men’s Spring 2024
When Jonathan Anderson unveiled his pigeon clutch in the fall 2022 JW Anderson men’s collection video, the lifelike resin accessory received scant mention in reviews, and was probably met with mostly quizzical expressions.
Now that 690 euro minaudière, one wing a hinged opening that won’t even accommodate a regular-size smartphone, is among items that are, ahem, flying off the aluminum shelves of the new JW Anderson boutique in Milan, which opened on Via Sant’Andrea last month.
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His spring 2024 men’s and women’s 2024 resort show on Sunday night will surely raise more eyebrows, given all the stiff lopsided shorts; sweaters with one long sleeve and one short one; wooly tops that resemble balls of yarn or kitchen mops, and slipper-like leather shoes that bring to mind big feline paws.
Anderson is a daring and original designer and his yen for experimentation has added zest to the fashion week offering.
Actors Kit Connor, Asa Butterfield and Debi Mazar were among VIPs who squeezed themselves onto blue or white benches arranged in stripes like the ones ringing the Original Cornishware teapot that served as a quirky show invitation.
The designer opened his display with a pair of those lopsided shorts, a loop of fabric jutting out from one side, paired with a gray rugby shirt whose neoprene-like stiffness was molded into a waist-cinching silhouette reminiscent of Christian Dior’s famous Bar jacket.
Almost three-quarters of the collection is knitwear, but worlds away from what a house like Missoni turns out.
Anderson transformed the pattern of cardboard moving boxes into flaring, tunic-length tank tops; added padded channels to sleeveless sweaters and tube dresses, like puffy sashes, and knitted wax cord into sculptural tops and cords with the dense texture of instant noodles.
Interspersed with the quirkier looks were arrestingly chic tubular leather coats, cool sweatshirts with triangular cutouts in front, and handsome shirts with an extra handkerchief of fabric drifting down elegantly from the collar.
The women’s resort offering was succinct: meticulously whorled tank dresses with bubble hems; knitted tunics with a V neckline so deep it almost reached the hem, and pin-striped dresses and gown with fabric crumpling asymmetrically past the waist.
During a morning press briefing, Anderson noted that certain looks in the collection sprang from coiled baskets, others a ’70s sofa in his office. “These things become subconsciously part of you,” he mused.
In other words, inspiration can come from anywhere — even pesky birds in search of crumbs in front of the Duomo.
Launch Gallery: JW Anderson RTW Spring 2024
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