Just Started Using Retinol? Here's How To Tell If Your Skin Is "Purging"
Retinol is undoubtedly the cool kid of skincare. Sit down with any dermatologist, and they'll most likely give you a few good reasons to start incorporating the ingredient into your routine. That's becausue retinol is a star ingredient for "treating acne, anti-aging, increasing cell turnover, boosting collagen, and treating pigmentation issues, among other things," says board-certified dermatologist Lauren Penzi, MD,
Meet the experts: Lauren Penzi, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York. Marisa Garshick, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York.
While all of the above sounds amazing, one of the biggest reasons why people tend to skip on using retinol products is because of the dreaded retinol purge (also known as the "retinol uglies," which refers to the flare-up of acne that sometimes occurs when a person initially begins using retinol).
If your skin is experiencing a retinol purge, there are definitely ways to manage it, and according to experts, trusting the process will be totally worth it once it passes. "Of all the most important skincare ingredients out there, I truly believe retinol is number one," says Dr. Penzi. "I think it can do more than just about any other ingredient out there."
Below, top dermatologists explain what a retinol purge is, how long it lasts, what to expect from one, and how to manage it.
What is a retinol purge?
Retinoids and retinol regulate and increase skin cell turnover, causing the bacteria from under the skin or in clogged pores to come to the surface. In some cases, this can cause breakouts as these nasties are cycling through your skin, though skin purging can look different for everyone (more on that below). Board-certified dermatologist Marisa Garshick, MD, notes that using other exfoliants in addition to a retinoid can also cause your skin to purge as well. "Theoretically, if you're using multiple products that can all contribute to increased skin cell turnover, it might be more likely to occur," she says.
How long does a retinol purge last?
The adjustment period may seem intimidating and frustrating, but you'll be relieved to know that a retinol purge is temporary. Depending on the individual, most purges last between two to eight weeks. "We usually say to think about it as two to three months to start seeing improvement," says Dr. Garshick.
How to tell if your skin is purging
As previously mentioned, a retinol purge will look different for everyone. However, most people usually experience one or a combination of the following symptoms:
Increased acne breakouts
Redness
Hot skin
Flaking
Itchiness
Increased sensitivity
Dr. Garshick adds that acne breakouts usually include blackheads, whiteheads, and pustules, while those with true skin irritation may be dry and more sensitive.
What to do when your skin is purging
Seeing changes in your skin might leave you questioning how to take care of it. Here are some tips to keep in mind.
Trust the process, and wait it out: In order to really get the most out of a retinol, you're going to have to keep using it while your skin is purging. "It's a temporary thing," says Dr. Penzi. "[A purge] means it's working because it's starting to bring all the gunk up and increase your cell turnover. So for most people, just hold on, continue through it." If you're experiencing skin irritation, your doctor may suggest decreasing the frequency of use to allow your skin to recover. "If you stop it and restart it, your body may not have fully completed the purge process, and it might happen again," says Dr. Garshick.
Remember to start small: When you're introducing a retinol product into your routine, you should start with a pea-sized amount, says Dr. Penzi. She suggests using the sandwich method, which involves adding your moisturizer to your hand, adding the retinol on top, and following that with another layer of moisturizer. Mix it all together, then apply. The main trick is to not overdo it.
Avoid using retinol every day: You don't want to overwhelm your skin with a new ingredient. Some may think it's a better idea to use retinol more often to speed up the purge, but it can possibly make the side effects worse. "Start using it two to three nights a week," says Dr. Penzi. "That can ease you into it so you don't experience that purge [as intensely], and then it works slowly and gradually over time."
When building out the rest of your routine, stick to gentle ingredients and products: During a retinol purge, you want to stay away from anything that might cause more irritation. That means skipping on AHAs, BHAs, and vitamin C or other acidic ingredients, according to Dr. Penzi. Plus, you may need to switch out your cleanser to one that's super gentle. "Once it's over—I think by one to two weeks [post-purge]—you should be fine to reintroduce other ingredients," says Dr. Penzi.
Continue using sunscreen: Regardless of your skin purging, you still want to protect it from the sun, especially since it may be more sensitive. "Some people get a little concerned that their sunscreen is causing [more breakouts]," says Dr. Garshick. "So just make sure that the sunscreen you're using is non-comedogenic."
Consider using a retinol alternative: A retinol purge isn't supposed to last forever, but there's always the chance that retinol is too strong for you. If you've been following all the directions, lessened the frequency, used as little as possible in combination with a gentle moisturizer, waited the average period for the purge to run its course, and your flare-up is still not improving, an alternative may be necessary. These alternatives (like bakuchiol, for example) are meant to work the same way but are more gentle on the skin. People using retinol for acne may need to switch to an antibacterial or some other anti-inflammatory, says Dr. Penzi. You can also look for a product with a reduced percentage of retinol.
The bottom line
While it may not be the most enjoyable experience, remember that skin purging is totally normal, and it will pass. If you can't tell whether or not your skin is purging, reach out to your dermatologist for extra guidance and tips to treat it if need be.
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