Just in From Copenhagen Fashion Week: 8 Trends to Kick Off Fall 2024

Within a few years, Copenhagen has quietly emerged as the fashion week to watch. Not only has it become an incubator of sorts, serving as a springboard for international talent (Cecilie Bahnsen, Stand Studio, Ganni, to name a few), but the region's focus on sustainability and ethical practices has also made it — and many of the brands that choose to show there — a de facto leader in the space. It's also a literal leader chronologically, preceding New York and the other main fashion weeks. Beyond all that, the top trends at Copenhagen Fashion Week's Fall 2024 season feel like a barometer for what creativity can be outside the traditional confines of American post-capitalism.

While headliner Ganni sat out this season to focus on its partnership with NewTalent — a more formal propeller for emerging brands — labels like Nicklas Skovgaard, Rolf Elkroth, Remain, The Garment, OpéraSport and the always delightful Baum und Pferdgarten embraced the colder season with a display of voluminous outerwear. "The bigger the better" was a common theme across the board, spilling onto innerwear in the form of bubble hems, oversized menswear-inspired suits, larger-than-life scarves and even bags that could hold everything but the kitchen sink.

Similarly intriguing was the repeated emphasis on the collar, whether via a pointy, '70s-era style poking out from a red sweater at The Garment, an exaggerated silhouette at Lovechild1979 or a disheveled, layered approach at WoodWood. Meanwhile, Scandi glamor ruled at Rotate, the week's usual closer.

Ahead, the top trends from CPHFW's Fall 2024 season — including one that might just split the crowd.

Big Red

While red has been on the trend radar for a few seasons now, this week solidified its relevance: At quiet luxury connoisseur Aeron, it came in a deeper maroon-adjacent version and was paired with hot pink — a palette we also saw at Alpha and Forza Collective. Meanwhile, darling Nicklas Skovgaard showed multiple shades of the hue in a dramatic monochrome look, and Stine Goya lent the color to a delicious leather trench. Rotate closed the week off with a handful of red-hot looks, including one that imagined what a modern-day crimson bride would look like down the aisle.

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Shot Collar

Eyes up here, folks. This season, you can forget about necklaces — and maybe even earrings while you're at it. One of the biggest trends at Copenhagen Fashion Week was each designer's close attention to the collar. Sometimes, it showed up as a pointy, '70s-era collar layered above a knit sweater; other times, as an oversized bowtie, like at Mark Kenly Domino Tan. Other iterations include a layered fringe style at The Garment, a duo of colorblocked collars at Baum und Pferdgarten and a wide-collar button-down layered below an even-wider-collared blazer at Stine Goya. Lastly, Marimekko's play on the neck pouch just might catch on.

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Lady Tie

If there's one trend to remember from Copenhagen Fashion Week that'll almost certainly end up making waves in New York and beyond, it's another piece of neck decor: the venerable tie. It's been embraced by brands like Forza Collective, The Garment, Mpfen and Stine Goya, the latter of whom replaced last season's ubiquitous skinny scarf with a skinny knit-style tie in black satin. The menswear trend also popped up in the form of oversized blazers, double-breasted coats and sweater vests with trouser shorts coats at Aeron, Won Hundred, Skall Studio, Alpha, and Baum und Pferdgarten.

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Bubble Hems Won't Burst

Of all the controversial early-aughts trends that made a recent comeback, the bubble hem may be the most divisive. We saw it last year in New York at Proenza Schouler and again last season at Tory Burch, and this time, it showed up at Nicklas Skovgaard for the second season in a row, as well as at The Garment and Alpha. Love it or hate it, it's here to stay for 2024.

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Capacious Bags

This season, we're seeing the welcomed continuation of gigantic handbags — which means you can finally stand to tote around your phone, wallet, keys, lip gloss, umbrella, a change of clothing and possibly even a pair of shoes or two (for the subway?). Baum und Pferdgarten alternated between wrap-around bum bags and larger totes folded into the crook of the arm. Meanwhile, Rolf Ekroth doubled up on two crossbody messenger bags, while Aeron and Remain eschewed handles in favor of fold-over styles carried at the hip.

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Turn Up the Volume

Layers are always on the docket for fall, but this season, designers supersized some of their pieces in an almost comical way. Lovechild1979's oversized, thick-knit scarf took over its debut look, while Stamm sent nearly a dozen Michelin-style sleeping bag puffers down the runway. Rolf Ekroth and Helmstedt also got in on the larger-than-life theme, while Rotate debuted torso-sized rosettes on, well, torsos.

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Bombers Go Off

Fashion's love affair with the bomber jacket is holding strong — especially if CPHFW has anything to say about it. After a few oversized styles walked the runway at Remain, the brand closed out its show with a more traditional silhouette featuring a dual-zip in a deep wine color. Similarly, OpéraSport debuted an oversized padded style, and Saks Potts showed a distressed bomber jacket paired with knee-high boots and a silk dress. Munthe, The Garment and Stine Goya also showed iterations of the timeless piece.

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Glove Love

Less of a trend and more of a necessity in the frigid Scandi winters, elbow-length gloves saw their time in the spotlight this season as the cold-weather accessory du jour. At Vain, white, near-shoulder-length gloves dressed up a racerback tank and voluminous maxi skirt. The Garment and Rotate went for delicate mesh iterations, while Wood Wood used leather.

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