Jonathan Cohen Fuses Impressionism and Punk Influences for Spring 2024
Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen put a bit more edge into his florals this season.
The designer is known for his beautiful dresses with original prints, usually flower-inspired. Spring 2024 continues the tradition, yet rather than pulling from crowdsourced favorites or petals rooted in his Mexican heritage like in the past, Cohen turned to two art movements that seem diametrically opposed — at first.
"I was looking at Impressionism and the punk movement and kind of seeing how similar they actually were. At the time when Impressionism happened, it was so radical, and people were panning it and thought they were crazy and thought they were like... the devil. It reminded me of the punk movement," Cohen tells Fashionista inside New York City's Hotel Chelsea, where he previewed the collection.
"It's very much who I am. It's like I grew up," he continues. The synergy he discovered between Impressionism and punk, Cohen says, mirrors his personal identity: having a Mexican background but growing up in San Diego.
Punk and impressionism prove a richly complex mix in the clothes. The South African amaryllis flower blooms across fabrics. Poppies trickle down fitted bodices. Continuing his foray into leatherwork, he crafted a black pintucked flare dress. In another departure from the collection's bright colors, two dresses feature a brown-yellow print that draws from the blue azurite stone. One of Cohen's proudest pieces is a gown with tufted embroidery of upcycled materials, courtesy of Péro and a team of 25 that brought the final piece to life.
"I know it's more common now, but it's a radical idea of taking something that would be seen as waste and then creating something beautiful," he says, relating his punk theme to the prized garb. He shares similar feelings around resisting trends while designing: "The thought of making really beautiful clothes feels like a radical movement right now... just really making things are timeless and beautiful.
Cohen continues to dabble with accessories, offering belts with next spring's items — and, perhaps even more exciting: shoes. Cohen collaborated with Larroudé for a nine-piece shoe drop inspired by the very prints and leather work on the garments. Poppy patterns are plastered on chunky platform heels, and laser-cut flowers adorn flats and a leather, knee-high stiletto boot. The collection is available to pre-order now.
Keep scrolling to see every look from Jonathan Cohen's Spring 2024 collection.
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Jonathan Cohen Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
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